Ok guys, I’m breaking down and posting here to see if anyone has any ideas. I’m greatful for any advice.

I have an upgraded flsun SR. I recently lost my computer (psu issue, waiting for replacement) and I took this opportunity to switch from Cura to Orcaslicer.

Over-all I’m very happy, and getting some good speeds, but I just cannot remove stringing no matter what I try:

  • Retraction from 0-7mm. After about 3mm, no further effect
  • Retraction speed from 30mm/s-50mm/s. No noticable effect
  • Travel speed and acceleration both high (up to 350mm/s and 6000 accel. No effect
  • Temp from 205-215 with no effect
  • Dried filament and different colours, no effect
  • Wipe on retract on and off, up to 2mm wipe distance and 100% retraction. No effect
  • Messed with scarf seams on and off, no effect
  • No effect from layer heights

My setup:

  • Printer - FLSun SR running klipper with a speede pad
  • Filament - Esun PLA+
  • Upgrades - Deported fans, OMG v2 extruder, volcano hotend and high flow cht nozzle
  • rambos@lemm.eeEnglish
    4·
    7 months ago

    Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…

    Just pull/push the tube with your hands. If there is no play you are good, but if there is:

    1. Inspect the bowden tube ends and cut them if they are worn out
    2. Push the bowden tube in the fitting.
    3. While pushing it in, press the collet down
    4. Then pull it out with a nail and then zip tie it

    I found original clips too thin, zip ties are much better IMO. It helped me remove stringing completely while using half of the retraction distance (using 0.6 nozzle)

    • Rangelus@lemmy.nzOPEnglish
      1·
      7 months ago

      After sleeping on it, I remembered that my new heatbreak doesn’t feed the bowden all the way to the end of the nozzle like the stock one does, so I’m pretty sure I have it seated correctly. I’ll check it though, many thanks for the info! :)