Thank you. It makes sense now

I agree, its not even worth to try imo. Frame geometry is super important. Even extrusions can be painfull if they are not cut well enough. If you want the best result you should mill them (instead of cutting them with a saw).

3D printer tolerances are far from acceptable and then every material shrinks differently (+ there are many other disadvantages).

On the other hand, prusa and voron are examples of great use of 3D printed parts where you benefit from flex. Its a brave design decision that works amazingly well, but they can barelly print first layer without ABL or simmilar. Yeah…ABL compensates for shitty tolerances and we end up with bent 3D printed part that counts as perfect print lol

I see the mesh, but cant tell what is wrong with it. Is your mesh about the same every time after running ABL? If you check any point on the right side, do you think your bed and nozzle are at the same distance after every ABL run, but sensor reading is wrong on that side?

Basically you have to identify is your sensor faulty, otherwise your bed or X gantry might be moving in Z over time. Faulty sensor can be fixed or replaced or just go to manual mesh leveling.

I would try probing the same point multiple times in a row and see what difference you see in readings. You could also do a manual mesh and compare it with auto bed mesh.

Move nozzle close to the bed, disable XY motors and move nozzle around while observing the gap. 0.1 mm variation can be seen by naked eye (alternative to paper method) and you have 0.6 mm according to your mesh.

Use a metal ruler (or something flat) and a light to confirm how much and where is bed bent, again visual inspection.

You get different map every time? Maybe your sensor is not trigering consistently? Is it wobbly? Hopefully its the sensor issue, otherwise its probably hardware issue (X Gantry or bed).

the right side of the bed is always printing too close

If the height diffetrence is always the same, you can try manual bed mesh leveling (sensor not even required). Create one map and load it every time. You can also just eddit existing map if you know what is wrong.

Thx for input.

I agree with you mostly, but there are also unfortunate examples even with big eu brand as well. Im not paranoid, but home 3D printer is more like production machine than kitchen appliance imo. They have moving parts and print failures happen sooner or later. Fire in a kitchen is not that rare it seems anyway.

Before reading comments, I wasnt aware that prusa is selling fire suppression system, but I guess there is a reason for that

Thx for sharing. Usefull information

This one would be more difiicult to mount in my cabinet, but the main reason Im eying can type is that I found multiple recommendations and also that thing cant be activated without flame afaik.

Im glad that people in this community dont have much experience with these, but that makes it more difficult to find the best product

My printer is behind shelly plug as well and I was thinking I could mount temperature sensor and smoke detector that shuts down printer through homeassistant and alarming me if needed. Testing and trusting that automation might be difficult tho. I do have camera as well, but that thing wouldnt help if shit happens while im in the deep sleep. Extinguisher would live on top of that.

It doesnt happen often ofcourse. It is super rare, but there are many horror storries on google. I think the biggest reason for fire hazard is a kitchen stove, still most people dont have any protection even there (including me).

These cans cost like 2-3 kg of filament and hopefully they will never be used and end up like a “waste of money”. Im spending money on this hobby anyway and this upgrade might help me sleep better 😁

Sorry for anxiety my friend

Now I’m worried if I’ve got my Bowden tube seated in the hotend correctly…

Just pull/push the tube with your hands. If there is no play you are good, but if there is:

1. Inspect the bowden tube ends and cut them if they are worn out
2. Push the bowden tube in the fitting.
3. While pushing it in, press the collet down
4. Then pull it out with a nail and then zip tie it

I found original clips too thin, zip ties are much better IMO. It helped me remove stringing completely while using half of the retraction distance (using 0.6 nozzle)

lemann gave some good points. Since you already tried so many things like lower temp than recommended and drying, I guess bowden tube might be loose (there should be no play at all). Or just a bad filament? I know esun is quite popular, but I never tried it.

What size of the nozzle you use? Bigger nozzle = more stringing

It is hard to avoid stringing with PETG, but for PLA it shouldn’t be a problem at all. My bowden extruder with 3 mm retraction has 0 stringing with Polymaker Polyterra PLA. Even with 1 mm stringing is almost gone completely. I found Polymaker much better with stringing than DevilDesign or AzureFilm that I used before.

Higher chamber temp should help and I think its the best way to deal with this issue. If you are going to try a different build surface like Kapton, consider gluing PEI sheet directly on the alu plate instead (not the spring steel sheet, just a PEI)

If you cant increase chamber temp, you can try reducing bed temperature. There is a minimum bed temp you need fot first layer, but you can try dropping it even more (5C) after a layer or two. PEI shouldnt loose adhesion and you will have a bit less shrinking. Not sure would that be enough for your part tho, warping is massive

I hook a filament around my neck before going to sleep. Every morning extruder pulls me out of the bed instead of using alarm. Don’t need a clock anymore and love to print in the morning anyway

Thx! Sounds like rly good deal, but 3 kg is not for me honestly. I dont print that much and also my spool holder is too small. 500 g spools would be better for me hehe

Not sure what EM is, but if you meant that some parts of print are shiny and the rest is matte, its probably different flow. Having equal speeds should fix that, I saw a video where they reduce max flow as solution

Thanks, I ordered some Polymaker ASA recently, will try it out.

Completely agree, but I have no experience with ASA. 22 mm3/s is super high, Id probably start with the highest temp marked on the spool. You can also test your max flow.

On the other hand, you had a layer shift which could happen for other reasons as well

Interesting comparison with water gun, but that would be equivalent of extruding in the air (even then I see it possible if the nozzle is not way too big). Think about connecting water pipe to a bigger diameter pipe. Water would fill the whole volume and it would just move slower if flow is laminar. There is also filament infront of the nozzle while printing so that should provide resistance (plus friction in the nozzle) to allow pressure build up. Nozzle shape might be important here, but I guess they just drilled 2.4 mm hole all the way through.

I obviously don’t know much about this nozzle, I’m not trying to teach anyone, I’m just having fun brainstorming and hopefully learning something new

Thx for the link!

Why doesn’t it just go through the center of the hole in the nozzle?

If you are asking about printing with bigger nozzle size than filament diameter, there should be positive pressure in all parts of hotend and filament is just moving slower where bigger cross section is. I don’t have experience with this kind of printing tho.

Btw, where did you find that nozzle is 2 mm? In video they mentioned printing 2 mm layer height, but that doesn’t define the nozzle size. You can print different layer widths and heights with the same nozzle. Good cross section is recommended for decent layer bond, but it looks like they are just laying the filament down with no squish.

For proper 2 mm layer height I guess we need 4 mm nozzle and 6 kg hotend/extruder lol