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I don’t trust AliEx any more after I took the loss of 3 orders for ~$60 in 2020. When I called, they hung up on me at random every time. After the 3rd try I washed my hands and walked away. Stealing from me once is on them, twice would be my own fault. Prior to that experience I spent a few thousand dollars on the platform for odds and ends.

I expect something like this to be an emulator and nowhere near the quality of a real Nintendo product, but I could be wrong. I would buy used or a homebrew project that is well documented and might cost a little more.

That is freaking awesome! I tried both ABS and ASA with the MK3 and a sealed enclosure, I can do some fairly large prints up to something like large grapefruit scale, but anything like your enclosure will separate on the corners. I think it is simply a bed slinger issue that is unsolvable. Awesome to see the tangible results and justification for building a 2.4.

Awesome project. Reminds me of Hexibase YT type stuff. I’ve got a spares shelf of drivers but would need to build an Arduino project to characterize them and the output empirically, and still haven’t gotten motivated for that level of math project.

I assume PLA? If that is ABS I’ll lose my mind.

I did proper assembly from the start where I cleaned and greased them when they were brand new. I’ve never had any issues since. No (cheap) linear bearings come with grease. They only have assembly oil and that is not even a load bearing lubricant; it is a corrosion inhibitor. This is a good thing really, because you need to know exactly what grease your bearings contain. You should never mix greases of any kind. They all have different formulations and will act unpredictably when mixed; often failing in a coagulant that provides no protection from metal on metal contact.

Many cheap printer manufacturers will dab a bit of grease on the rails outside of the bearings when new. This is useless in practice due to the bearing seals. The seals are designed to let a small amount of grease out, but block any old grease from reentering the block itself.

If the blocks were run dry without grease, they are contaminated and need to be cleaned out completely. Likewise if they need service and have unknown grease inside them. If you clean them out to the point they are spotless, and then you manually pack them with a quality grease, you’re unlikely to ever need to service them again for a very long time.

I build my own bicycle wheels and service my bearings and hubs about every 10k miles riding in all weather. I was sloppy with how I serviced bearings for a few years before I really narrowed in on my issues. They must be spotlessly cleaned, without any old grease whatsoever; like clean enough to eat off of them. This is the difference between 2k-4k between problems and 10k+ on a daily ridden bike. Same thing applies here if you want to only do the job once.

Lemmy.ml is on the linked instances list as federated? https://lemmy.world/instances

I don’t know. It hasn’t been working most of the time and as far as I know, most of us use a third party like catbox.moe. 2.2 is a lot for forever storage given the big picture. Converting to a webp or downsizing/cropping is usually possible. Someone has to pay for the hosting service. catbox is just another human, as are these instances. Best practice is to leave as little of a footprint as possible.

413 Payload Too Large The request is larger than the server is willing or able to process. Previously called “Request Entity Too Large”.[16]: §10.4.14

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_HTTP_status_codes

Yeah, technically it could, but tape sticks really well to most filament. It is more likely that whatever came out of the nozzle was in a dead zone. The nozzle back bore is drilled with a steeper angle than a typical bit, but it is not so acute that there are no dead zones. Sometimes filament can sit in those zones, cook, and go wonky. It happens more often with high temp filaments like polycarbonate. I run a bit of purging filament with every change and rarely have problems.

I would be more concerned about extruder gear issues with residue over time.

TNI is not about planes. It is about the linearity of the tree, the truncation of infinite numbers, and the loops the tree must patch on in order to break a linear branch of the tree. These breaks create a cascade of problems that are not possible to address because the information required is missing once the initial reference is created and truncated at the register level. It is not a single reference issue. All references down tree are relative and themselves often truncated. Breaking the tree is always the wrong thing to do. Yes it can be done as a hack to do something quickly, but that is just a hack. Stacking hacks is terrible design. This is the difference between a good designer and the bad. It is all about a linear tree and π.

I can design without any reference planes and just offsetting my sketches. I never use faces or import 3d geometry. I am very intentional about what references I import and those I do not. I also make some sketches as references only, and these are used to alter other sketches down tree. All of this is TNI centric.

I updated the sidebar with this. I like the comparison on github.

I might try and break down why exactly the topological naming issue is not a “problem” and why it is actually beneficial to learn how to design while it is in place. I doubt the information is public for all of these other CAD packages, but how they each address the TNI versus π would be most interesting in my opinion.

It is all patches and hacks under the surface with all proper design methodologies revolving around the TNI. Obfuscating it makes the resulting failures a big mystery to the ignorant end user. Then the whining is shifted to “bad software bugs” when in fact it is ignorant user. I think this is the primary reason FreeCAD is so slow to obfuscate TNI with a hack. Even Solidworks had a TNI in place in the beginning. The professional gurus that can fix anything in CAD are all addressing the issue with a TNI mindset while looking for obscure references that somehow invoke π.

Interesting! So the ship is like LLM’s presently; static/not AGI

I’m writing with a similar type of AI, saw the meme, and thought to ask the ST nerds. I was a bit young for NG on a deeper level and I’m not a big show watcher. I wouldn’t have had a clue about the alignment problem until the last couple of years anyway.

I have read most of Asimov’s robot stuff and a bunch of theory summary type info on the issues of AI. Humans are a basket case of contradictions under the surface and just outside of most people’s awareness. This is one of the largest issues that causes problems with LLM’s and it only gets worse the more integrated AI gets within the analogue world.

I think there must be an external AI that only has the job of spotting the alignment problem acting like an silent observer in a mixture of experts.

The ship is likely AI in ST, although I never put it in that context in my head while watching and I’m not sure how it was presented on the show. This is the likely management entity that could have been used with Data. The question in my mind that needs further exploring is how to make the connection and control in a way that the controlling entity is not just a bigger alignment problem with minions.

Did ST ever address any AI alignment mechanism to stop Data if they went rogue?

I mean like in the weeds addressing the issue, like a watchdog check or mixture of experts redundancy override.

I’m biased to say save and get a Prusa. It is what I did. It is not a printer project. The hardware specs are a misnomer. The continuous investment in the community is the real selling point. I spent more initially, but my Prusa is still worth nearly what I put into it even as a MK3S+ when the 4 is a thing. Everyone knows it will still work, and continue to do so, while parts will always be readily available. No one worries that it is some failed project.

Now if I tried to sell my little modified KP3S Kingroon, that thing is pretty much worthless now even though it works okay most of the time. I spent more on it at $200 than I did on the Prusa at just over 3× as much. I barely used the KP3S, wasted $100 on “upgrades” and it is now all loss. I got it after the Prusa knowing it is a project to screw around with. Spending more can often mean spending less when you consider long term value. That is just my personal opinion. I don’t regret buying the Prusa.

If you want to improve the surface considerably with an absolute minimum of effort: A single edged chisel Xacto knife blade like #17 is the ideal tool to take off small zits with precision and not risk damaging or making a bigger issue. Note that this is a medium pen size blade, unlike the small pen sized #11 angled blade.

The single bevel allows you to slide the knife over a flat surface using the obtuse bevel side as a fulcrum so that the cutting edge remains just above the surface of the print. The edge will only contact the high spot of the zit without gouging into the print by mistake.

With 3D prints, blade #17 is my most often used tool for basic rough cleanup work :)

I was not insinuating anything negative. Sorry if that came across. You mentioned painting, and I would not expect handling durability for paint at this scale. That was the message I originally intended. I am a former auto body shop owner and painter. So my perspective is a bit different that most when it comes to finishes. There is nothing wrong with the print. I apologize if my comment came across otherwise.

All plastics can be sanded and polished. This can yield an excellent result that is indistinguishable from a molded part, especially for ABS/ASA. I have tested with most common materials if you ever need help. Automotive class finishing or an equivalent polishing carry a similar amount of total labor with polishing costing less in overhead.

If I’m not mistaken, that switch position is part of your calibration and if you print close to the edges on this axis, you are likely to fail. However, you can put anything that will fit in that space and trigger the button on contact in close to the same way. Like a little cut up piece of an old print or anything really. It just needs to be light enough to make a little tape hinge from the top and press in the micro switch button.

When the printer starts it has no idea where 0,0 home is, but it knows the approximate location of the switch. If anything about the switch changes, so will 0,0. This is not super critical or anything, it just has to be close. The switch contact has a relatively large area of uncertainty where it will trigger differently each time. All your print moves are relative to 0,0. So it doesn’t matter if 0,0 moves so long as you have enough margin of error available in your calibration. If you print all the way to the last few millimeters of the build plate, and try to use this hack, that is all that won’t work.

(Edit: I assume this had the little metal actuator arm that hit the white button and that arm broke off.)

It all really depends on what you are doing and the conditions of the part.

I’m a former auto body shop owner and painter. This kind of thing is what I did all the time, but many techniques are tricky to do in practice.

The flexibility of the material around the repair is important. Like body fillers (bondo) are formulated to have similar properties to steel. There are specific varieties made for different plastics.

If all you need is a temporary fix for tomorrow or a few days from now, masking tape, papier-mâché, etc. You might be able to print a very thin overlay that you can glue over the spot.

In my experience, it sucks, but you’ll likely be better off accepting your mistake now and starting over properly. You would not believe some of the losses I’ve had to take when painting cars because I tried to fix mistakes like this, and even ones I had to start over. Like imagine painting an entire car, completing the job, but deciding you want to do one more clear layer over the hood where there is a slightly dry spot and your spray gun decides it hates you, a seal fails, and a bunch of fluid drips onto the surface ruining the whole job. I’ve had stuff like that happen a ridiculous number of times.

In auto body work, sanding through too much of a surface is very common. You can’t just spray a tiny bit over that surface or ignore it and get away with the issue. It is a big deal. Your problem may not be of this magnitude. It may be fixable, but beware of placing bandaids on bullet holes expecting a full recovery. My rule was to step away and take a break before assessing the situation. Emotional investment clouds one’s best judgement. GL.