Fifteen minutes in CAD (used Solid Edge CE for this one), fifteen more on the printer, and we have Liko’s hair clip ready to hot glue onto a little barrette. Drying paint and clear coat will take longer than the rest of it.
Fifteen minutes in CAD (used Solid Edge CE for this one), fifteen more on the printer, and we have Liko’s hair clip ready to hot glue onto a little barrette. Drying paint and clear coat will take longer than the rest of it.
I was not insinuating anything negative. Sorry if that came across. You mentioned painting, and I would not expect handling durability for paint at this scale. That was the message I originally intended. I am a former auto body shop owner and painter. So my perspective is a bit different that most when it comes to finishes. There is nothing wrong with the print. I apologize if my comment came across otherwise.
No worries, LOL. I did have a couple of zits, and the paint pen is not the ideal source for color, but I have used it before with good success after a coat of rattlecan lacquer. Kiddo and I have also had the “this is a prototype that lasts as long as it lasts” discussion. She knows daddy’s deal by now, and is happy that she didn’t have to wait for a commercial product. 🤣
If you want to improve the surface considerably with an absolute minimum of effort: A single edged chisel Xacto knife blade like #17 is the ideal tool to take off small zits with precision and not risk damaging or making a bigger issue. Note that this is a medium pen size blade, unlike the small pen sized #11 angled blade.
The single bevel allows you to slide the knife over a flat surface using the obtuse bevel side as a fulcrum so that the cutting edge remains just above the surface of the print. The edge will only contact the high spot of the zit without gouging into the print by mistake.
With 3D prints, blade #17 is my most often used tool for basic rough cleanup work :)