I’ve been at this for years, most of my designs are like your solid parts (Display Stands and DS Stylus). I’ve only recently tried experimenting with moving parts, and I’ve found using mixed mediums the best when 3D printing. i.e. using cloth or leather as the moving medium, with TPU or PETG for strength/flexibility.

As for what this is for. I’ve designed and made 3D Printable e-reader cases, which this link will show you the printable parts for, but I’d like to make a case for my iPad and other tablets, however I want to be able to prop it up and for it to be stable. This is designed with my cases in mind, and it has the clearance to lay flush with the back panel.

End goal is to have this embeded in the back so I can prop it up landscape, while I have another in the sleep cover so it can be propped up portrait, like an easel.

I could achieve the same effect by making the arms thicker. Though I am thinking of printing the screw caps in TPU to see if I can make it stiffer that way.

Trying to keep the parts the same as the main thing this belongs too. M2 threaded inserts and 5mm screws. So not a lot of flexibility when it comes to thickness. That said, as a MK2 I’d probably make it 2mm thick rather than 1.2mm since that’s my goto size for stiffness.

I know, I just hope that they don’t point to it and say “this is the reason we don’t make 2D Zelda games” like they did with Chibi Robo and that god awful 3DS game, or Star Fox and that god awful Wii U game.

We do, but they aren’t that good of a deal, especially since you can get the same discount… if not more, if you buy used. And you can sell the game when you are done rather than being stuck with digital.

That said, outside of Nintendo, who rarely if ever discount their games, most games on modern systems get heavily discounted months if not a year after they come out. You are a fool if you buy the latest Ubisoft Game new since it’s usually $15-$30 before it’s been on-sale for a year. Even Sony first party IP, I got most of them for $10-$20 a pop new or digital, since I bought in at the tail end of the PS4 generation.

Been waiting for a new 2d Zelda game since link awakening was rereleased. So far it looks interesting. The only issue I can see with this game is that it to is going to be $79.99 CAD and from what I’ve seen it’s so not going to be worth that. Hoping for a $49.99 or $59.99 CAD price tag, but this is Nintendo.

Right, lots of suggestions for Bambu and Prusa and rightfully so. But their prices are high and while they are worth it, they wouldn’t be what I’d suggest for a first time printer.

The Ender 3 is what I’d suggest, though not the V1. The S1 or the v3 and good starting points for being in budget and having some modern features.

This isn’t like the mid 2010’s where it was hit or miss and the printers will have a slight chance of burning your house down. Hictop anyone? But these days even a $200 printer is good enough to start printing.

That said software is going to be your biggest pain point.

For the slicer make sure its compatible with PrusaSlicr or Cura. Preferability the former. This makes the models to print, and some cheep third party slicers makes their own with questionable quality and support.

For modeling, you have some options. Blender if you are looking to design 3d shapes like clay. Fusion360 is a cheap and free (while limited) solution for parametric cad design. With TinkerCAD is a good in between. But like Photoshop is to gimp, Fusion 360 is to FreeCAD and it may be worth learning how FreeCAD works since its an extremely flexible tool.

TL:DR Ender 3 V3/S1, Prusa Slicer, Cura, Blender, TinkerCAD, Fusion360, FreeCAD and you should be too to start printing and making brackets.

I don’t like apple. But I love to recommend them for 4 reasons:

1. The hardware, even the cheapest base specs is light years better than anything from Windows or Android. I can’t tell you how many times a relative bought an Android and stopped using it because it was unresponsive after a week. Or I had to stop another from buying a Windows PC with only 4GB of RAM… in 2022.

2. The fake download links are targeting Windows not Mac. Meaning that when a relative downloads their games or cousins gets a hold of their computer to download minecraft skins, their machine won’t be playing breakout on their desktop (yes this actually happened, and lived in the RAM from what I could tell)

3. When the OS updates, the careful configuration I made for them doesn’t break. Why [RELATIVE] are you using Edge, when I set up Chrome for you… oh your machine updated and moved the chrome icon, and this looks close enough to IE that you clicked on it. Cool.

4. I don’t have to teach them how to use Video Chats, or Web Messages, as they are baked in, won’t change after a week, and has been consistent since forever. Sure suck on my end when they ping my iPad instead of my phone, but that’s on me.

While I understand your argument. I have my own philosophy for what is retro in terms of games.

For me I don’t look at the system but the games. And for games it about 10-15 years after they were first released.

Enough time that kids can be born and never see this game until now. While I wouldn’t call Pokemon Sun/Moon retro just yet. The 3ds/2ds has games on it that I would consider it retro.

Its been over half a decade since Nintendo stopped making games for it, and even longer since people cared about it.

The only time I will argue something isn’t retro is when its still on the store shelf and not in the discount bin.

If you want me to make you feel old the hardware was released in 2013, making it over 10 years old this year.

To clarify, this is what my e-reader case looks like

What this replaces is the side without the e-reader. As for overheating, never been an issue since the e-reader is exposed to the air and the heat goes through the screen.

Recommendations for learning. Have someone who knows how to hand sew nearby to ask questions. My local leather shop has classes to help newbies.

That said I didn’t take those, as I had a really good idea on what I wanted, and someone nearby that could teach me to sew. Plus I used cutting machines to do a lot of the heavy lifting.

My only advice is to not use a vinyl cutter like from Cricut or Silhouette. The motors are not strong enough to cut actual leather, they fetch and loose steps very easily. Laser is your best bet, though the smell is pungent, ventilation is required.

The other advise is unlike cloth, you need to plan and make your stitch holes before you sew. Leather is too thick to punch through it without significant force. A Sharp knife is your best friend if you missed a hole.

Yes, thank you Public Domain

New ones can’t ifixit shows that it’s soldered in now. No easy storage upgrades (and I would’ve totally done it too).

Yeah, yeah totally planned and not rereading the series for the 10th time… 😐

16GB is more than enough for most written books, ranging from 1-3MB. But for comics they can range from 93MB to 250MB or more. As such while you can have 5000+ Books on your Kobo, you can only have 65 comics, and considering how large some manga series are, that’s not enough to keep everything on the same device.

My gripe with Kobo is how they organize their books, and while I could organize them into collections, for DRM free books, they don’t store them in the system, so if I remove and re-add a book to my e-reader, I have to manually re-add them to the collection. But in truth no e-reader is perfect, the closest I found is the Pocketbook, since they offer SD Card support, but I opted for the Onyx Boox Nova 3 Color. I like the fact I can write on it, like a remarkable tablet, it’s running Android so I can get a lot of utility out of it. But I don’t like the fact that it’s a chinese android tablet stuck on Android 10 with no OS updates in sight, and the lack of Micro SD Card support (though USB support is nice).

You win some you loose some.

!aobprepub@bookwormstory.social is leaking. Praise be to the gods, and the saint.

I have both (cuz I’m selling the case and needed to test), and I’m working on a video review for it.

Tldw for the video is this. Clara BW is a Clara 2e, processor, ram, and storage are spec exactly the same, even the power button and sleep sensor is the same position. It only took me 9 days to make these since I reused the sleep cover from my 2e case design. However it’s a little snappier, making it on par with the latest Kindle for books. Still slow for comics.

The e-reader shown is the Clara color, despite the spec bump feels exactly the same as the Clara BW. Unless you read colored books like magazines, comics, or textbooks it’s not worth the upgrade. Kobo really needed more than 16GB of storage.

That said I was never a fan of Kobo so the Clara color is the first one I actually like.

Hope this includes the original ROMs.

Yeah, I made these because my original case broke (Nova 3 color not kobo). I sell them on Etsy, though sadly since it’s so labour intensive to stitch it ends up costing as much as the eReader. Trying to make it more upgradeable and user serviceable to better justify the price, but I’m still testing them.

As for the desk, it’s my deterrent to keep eBay scam artists from selling my designs with my photos. I have fancy professional photos I can use if I want.

Like this one

The Keyboard is from EVGA but it was on clearance when I got it so I don’t think they sell it anymore.

I have the iPad Pro with an M1 chip in it. And I never once thought… This needed more power, or this needed to be thinner.

I need a headphone jack, and I need better software support from third party devs (without the apple tax).

The only exciting news is the Pencil Pro, but even then it’s a niche use case. Plus them dropping the price of the existing iPad.

This could’ve been an email.