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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 15th, 2023

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  • The auto-bed leveling on your 3D printer is nice, but it’s not a replacement for manually leveling the bed. Manually level the bed before every print, since taking off your last print from the bed has the tendency to make your bed not level. Then, after manual leveling, do an auto-bed leveling to remove the remaining tiny variations in the bed level

    Depends on your printer, I think. Mine is quite happy being leveled only after nozzle changes, and the autolevel is Good Enough.


  • nyan@lemmy.cafeto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldMedical models
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    1 year ago

    There are a few directions you could go in to have the print flex: print from flexible material (although I’m not sure that even the softest grade of Ninjaflex would be flexible enough), or, as someone has already suggested, create a mold for silicone casting. Or, in the worst case, modify one of those sectioned print-in-place flexible snake models, although the result won’t be as realistic.

    I was hesitating to suggest this, but do you think you could usefully modify a realistic dildo model? Cults3D probably has a few—I think they’re the only major repository with a sex toy section.


  • nyan@lemmy.cafeto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldMedical models
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    1 year ago

    Urological models don’t seem to be common (you can get bones, hearts, and a few other organs from the US NIH, though). However, one of the things I did turn up in a quick web search was several mentions of software that can be used to turn medical imaging data (MRI, possibly others) into models for printing. It’s usually used for setting up individualized treatment plans. Maybe what you need is a former patient who’s had the appropriate regions scanned and might be willing to release the data to you for such a purpose.






  • Alternatively, what’s impossible for an individual might be possible for a group. A makerspace with enough members who are into 3D printing might be able to break even on a macerator, extruder, and spooler in a reasonable amount of time by reselling the filament. Say maybe 30 people each producing a kg of waste PLA per year?

    Hmm. Pinning some numbers on this . . . The Filabot EX2 is an extrusion and spooling setup for $6,560.70 USD . Plus the bill of parts for a DIY macerator . . . let’s call it $7000, because round numbers are nice. $1000 a year would pay this off in a not-unreasonable amount of time. So you’d need to produce 100 spools at $10 or 50 spools at $20. If you’re only clearing 30kg of waste per year, and selling 1kg spools at $20, that’s $600/year and about 12 years to pay off the rig. Still not completely out of the question, I guess.



  • When I looked into this a couple of years back, the prices for ready-made filament extrusion setups looked like the target market was small business rather than individuals. And the recommended DIY method for breaking down plastic if you didn’t have a machine shop was to get a paper shredder with metal blades (one of the models capable of shredding optical disks).

    Much simpler to recycle printer waste into slab material. Or send it to a manufacturer that does recycling. Unless you’re generating at least tens of kilos of waste a year, you’re unlikely to break even any time soon by re-extruding, assuming the resulting filament is usable at all (ensuring consistent diameter and near-perfectly round cross-section is probably a PITA).