Guantendomo, if you will

Just slice it up a bit and print a life size boat at this point

Gimp I got the hang of pretty quickly coming from Photoshop, but switching to OpenCAD has not been a smooth transition from AutoCAD.

It’s a preservation thing and a collectors item. As the hardware ages and begins to die, playing the games “as they were originally intended” becomes more and more inaccessible.

The eShop on Switch is horrendous. How did they manage such a good experience on the 3DS and then take such a huge step back with it on a much more advanced console?

It looks very close to the edge of the print bed. Is there any chance the print head crashed into the side and made the belt slip? Something like this?

It’s a bit weird. Only Kbin has the functionality built in to see who is giving upvotes or downvotes. The information is technically public on Lemmy too because of how federation works, there’s just no way to see it in the web UI or apps.

There’s a problem though. Downvotes don’t federate between Lemmy and Kbin, so we can only ever see downvotes from other Kbin users here. If someone on Lemmy downvotes something, I’d never even see the count change and wouldn’t be able to see who did it.

Edit: from my view, no comments in this thread have any downvotes.

They have them on their website

Now I’m considering getting one for my Mega S also…

It’s based on an instrumental track originally from the 4th Touhou Project video game. I think they’re very popular in Japan, but the important thing about this song is the fan-made music video. It’s almost entirely black and white, so it could be played back on any device capable of displaying at least 2 colors. It became a challenge to see what devices you could get the video running on, very similarly to what people do with Doom.

How flat should I expect it to get? It’s sticking to +/-0.2° of the set temperature at the moment

After trying as many suggestions as I could, it seems the one that did the trick was replacing the thermistor entirely. Seems I must have broken it somehow, though the glass bulb and wires were still intact from what I could tell.

Yeah that’s right, I bought the wrong nozzle and using it messed up my hotend. Replacing the whole hotend at that point was easier than trying to clean the plastic out from all the places it had leaked into.

Yeah the exact same, it was the spare that came with the printer. I had messed up the original a little while ago when I changed out the nozzle from a V6 to a MK8 before I knew they were meant for different hot ends. The threading was the same and I thought that meant they were compatible… It had plastic leaking from around the heater block after that and after not using the printer for a bit, I did some research into where I went wrong and how to swap the parts out for the clean spare.

I replaced the hot end assembly a couple weeks ago, but I didn’t make any changes to the way things were wired. I plugged it in to the same connectors as before.

Looking at how the wires are plugged in, you might be on to something here. The extruder stepper seems to be wired into the same port as the breakout board that the thermistor is connected to. If that is the problem though, any ideas how can I fix it and why it’s only showing up now? I’ve had this printer for maybe 2 years now and I installed klipper on it last month, but this issue only began a few days ago.

It did actually, this screen shot was taken immediately before it shut down. I’ll pick up a few replacements and try swapping it out.

I assume so? The original hot end came with it pre-applied, so I think the spare the printer came with should too, but I haven’t checked this one.

Hmm, I might have to order a new replacement and see if that helps then. I had replaced the hot end assembly with the spare that came with the printer a couple weeks ago. I was very careful with the change, but I suppose it’s possible I damaged a wire in the process. It’s been running smoothly since then though, until today when the temperature started swinging wildly.

Thermistor is the only thing that I can think of… Hopefully tightening it works. It doesn’t happen unless the print head is in motion, which makes me think that’s the problem. Otherwise, the temperature is stable and completes PID tuning without issue.

I don’t think vase mode does travel moves, does it?