It’s absolutely the best place to buy stuff like this. I buy spools of addressable LEDs, ESP boards, random electronic components, and smart home stuff from there provided I can wait a week or two to get it. You’re buying the exact same stuff from Amazon most of the time but at much cheaper prices with longer shipping times.

That said, I probably wouldn’t ever buy a branded product like OP did because if they screw you over it’s going to be a huge pain to try to get a refund and there’s a decent chance it’s not as described or straight up counterfeit.

Same here. I also don’t see the issue with it. It. Very much fits the vibe of DS9 and TNG and gave us some very iconic characters.

The P1S/P1P would definitely be worth it over the A1 mini as the CoreXY construction is a complete game changer. I don’t think I’ll ever buy another bed slinger printer. The whole design just doesn’t make sense outside of being economical, which was fantastic 5+ years ago in order to get everyone into the hobby, but is really limiting now.

Bambu has really changed the landscape and elevated the hobby as a whole, which will be awesome for everyone once some competitors start trying to copy what they’ve done.

Most will work right out of the box (after assembly) but the cheaper printers like the Ender will require periodic tinkering and upgrades to keep it working and make it perform better. I just retired my Artillery Sidewinder X2 (which is similar to the Ender CR10) for the Bambu X1C and don’t regret it one bit. Prints just work all the time now and I haven’t had to tinker with anything. My X2 has been upgraded quite a bit and yet still frequently gave me (solvable) issues that would be so frustrating when I just wanted to get something printed out.

I would also recommend the A1 mini if you’re not looking to tinker and can deal with the bed size. Bambu Labs has done a great job on their lineup, MakerWorld, and by offering filament as well. They’ve really simplified the whole process.

How does this make any business sense from any angle?

Presumably, you have the actual file already, but you can’t give some free advertising to the creator by posting a make of the file? Locking the file behind a paywall makes sense since that’s the actual thing of value here. Locking a make behind a paywall is neutral for the consumer and a negative for the creator.

From the consumers’ perspective, there is essentially zero incentive to pay just to post a picture of someone else’s creation. There’s no FOMO, there’s nothing being ‘withheld.’ It’s just one less step you have to do (assuming you wanted to do it in the first place).

So what happens here is the creator loses out on free advertising, the consumer isn’t even mildly inconvenienced, and Prusa still gets zero revenue out of the whole deal.

Can someone give a rationale for this? Maybe something I’m missing?

I’ve never used either, so I can’t speak to their actual quality, but cheaping out on cameras defeats the purpose of getting cameras if the footage is too grainy or blurry to be used for anything.

Seems almost universally praised from what I’ve seen. With the loss of DSC, I can’t see them dumping another show with nothing in the works.

For me the first season was arguably one of the worst. I didn’t start enjoying it until around S3 with the time jump, but it’s been hit or miss since then. I just can’t stand how, for lack of a better word, sappy the show can be with the constant “cut to crewperson’s face giving an approving nod while Burnham gives a motivational, whispered speech backed by heartwarming music.” It all seems so over the top, lazy, and gimmicky. Rather than write better stories, they want to pull on your heartstrings with cheap tropes to keep people watching.

That’s not a link to the case builder which can be found here: https://github.com/hominoids/SBC_Case_Builder

It’s such a hilariously terrible idea. I’ve watched through all the series and movies and can’t even recall ever seeing a single rover in any one of them. What need is there for a rover when you have shuttlecraft and transporter technology?

One thing you’re overlooking here is the connection between the hot end and the control board. Perhaps a ribbon cable has gone bad and one of the wires inside is on the verge of snapping completely in two? This would cause inaccurate, high resistance values giving you a lower nozzle temperature as well as give you intermittent and worsening issues. You could just swap it out or use a multimeter to check the resistance from one end of the ribbon cable to the other.

Frankly I’m impressed you’ve managed to troubleshoot this far. Just normal/common printer issues often cause me to step away from printing for months at a time due to the frustration.

I just use some large Ikea zip lock bags and keep the silica packs that came with the rolls inside with it. I’ve had very few issues with PLA and PETG and I live in the PNW where it rains a lot.

I don’t know a ton about their design, so I could be wrong, but I believe with Trinamic drivers, they typically have current limits set in the firmware that will cut power if they exceed the limit. It could be jamming and just naturally springing backward as it occurs and power is cut.

Rotating by hand, you’ll feel the magnets inside giving some natural resistance (like you’re hitting notches) but it should be consistent and smooth otherwise. If you feel any extra resistance at any point in the rotation, I’d just swap it out or disassemble it and look for debris like plastic shavings.

Take out the extruder stepper and rotate the shaft by hand and feel if there is binding at any point. I think I mentioned I had this same issue on my direct drive printer in your previous post. It would work fine until it didn’t and randomly act like the nozzle was clogged. When printing, I think the load on the motor is going to be greater than feeding filament through into open air, which may exacerbate the problem.

You’ve xhecked the hotend a bunch of times so I would focus on other areas. Something else may have broken at the same time as your nozzle swap which may just be leading you on a wild goose chase.

Have you checked the health of the extruder stepper motor and really examined the filament path? I’ve had two weird issues with my direct drive extruder, one was the filament had work a small groove into the metallic tension arm which would catch the filament and cause it to jam. The other issue was a stepper motor that got some debris in it and would bind up intermittently. Not sure if your printer has a bowden setup, but it’s something new to check out.

I remember with some games, you could pop the disc out and swap in a music CD without ever stopping your game.

I hadn’t heard of it and just briefly browsed their page and I notice they don’t even mention that it’s CoreXY, which is odd. They really seem to want to highlight that it has dual motors on the Z screws and dual ABL sensors though.

The current price of $469 is pretty good. That’s what I paid for my Sidewinder X2 bed slinger several years ago.

In that article:

The only “workaround” I can think of is to use a better coordinator (EFR32MG21) and have many routers deployed in your network, so this device doesn’t crash it.

Maybe I’m missing some context here, but ‘debouncing’ is just accounting for the fact that every switch, when pressed, will bounce on and off the contact for a few milliseconds. If you didn’t account for this, then turning your light on would cause it to flicker on and off rapidly until the switch settles.

Your zigbee devices phoning home all day while not being used shouldn’t have anything to do with debouncing.

Still have springs? Ditch them for silicone spacers.