Plastic is the wrong material due to moisture building up inside and some other pitfalls.

First of all: Legal is the bare minimum.

If you run a contest or sweepstakes and set out rules you are bound to them. Ignoring them like Prusa did exposes you up to liability claims.

You’re mad that the contest was moderated?

More the opposite. The sloppy way they moderate it to the point where they don’t even bother to remove comment spam below the contest description page.

Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it. Voters voted on the submissions they liked the most. Get over it.

That’s not how it works. There is no public vote.

Honestly I stopped reading. Something about a paid part integration that you got mad about because it’s heavily discounted and you can submit photos even if you don’t have one or something?

Just read the comments here: https://blog.prusa3d.com/contest-experiential-robotics-challenge_97306/

Dozens feel like this isn’t a good choice.

Btw. I don’t take part in them but it is still very ugly what they do. Similiar you don’t need to buy Nestle to understand that Nestle might be problematic in some aspect.

I don’t lube the rails, it attracts too much dust. I still oil them to prevent rust.

The 50km figure is out of the HiWin application note at 30% load capacity. Even with 0% load it won’t go above 150km.

Looking at the Thompson-Link: It is for the self-lubrication block (long-term lubrication unit) which indeed has a much higher endurance. Raising maintenance intervals to roughly once per year. As far as I know, they are only available for MGN15 and larger.

has a maximum flow rate of 22 mm^3/s which limits it to about 250mm/s for 0.2mm layer height.

Divide the number by 5 which would be roughly every 100 print hour or two weeks of printing.

Marlin has this feature (time based) but most manefacturer didn’t enabled it.

Duet doesn’t have it

Klipper doesn’t (has a time counter so you could implement it easily).

Printers are pushing significantly faster acceleration these days with upto 50k mm^2/s and 1m/s is already real.

Works for me.

It allows me to post a make.

Some aspects of Printables are “wrong”. Contests are a total mess at the moment. I might make a serape post about it.

This? Looks like a glitch/bug. As far as I can tell this is only active on paid items which makes sense.

If cold pulls won’t work get a new nozzle. Filament of choice for this procedure is Nylon.

One of the alternatives could be THF to dissolve the plastic and go from there. Don’t know what Prusa charges for nozzles but it can’t be that bad to make this procedure worth it. After all it is a Prusa and not some industrial machine.

Thanks. See the other comment for details how now performs.

Improved but still not a match to Ultimaker Cura.

Prusa is very slow compared to Cura as PrusaSlicer needs every option checked including Geometry handling accurate to sometimes get 7 pcs. matching Cura performance. If the result is 7 or 6 pcs. depends on where the part originally was placed on the print bed (or luck? run to run variance?). Not a reliable software for nesting.

With fast and balanced setting it only does 6 pcs.

fast:

balanced:

accurate:

Default settings. Where is the option to rotate it?

Providing it manually with 90° rotated and using the auto arrange instead of fill bed: 5 pcs. Still not a great result.

With mainsail and klipper, you can cancel one failed part mid-print and keep going on the rest of the parts.

There is an addon for Duet (RRF) but I can’t get it working. Anyway, once it is time for a batch print the first testprint has been completed successfully and build plate adhesion is a non-issue on this printer.

You have to tell it the dimensions of your extruded head, so it doesn’t crash the part Ask me how I destroyed two z-endstops this year (very asymmetrical toolhead and Prusa can’t be configured to reflect this and with a “radius” large enough it would block half of the printbed (60mm radius or so) meaning eyeballing is the best option).

I only use this option if I need the part before the entire batch is finished and don’t want to start multiple prints. Which isn’t frequent.

Cars are a very high-vibration environment with km of wiring and some carrying high currents, flammable liquids and hot parts. With e-autos there is even more including a 50’000 Wh energy storage waiting to catch fire.

While cars do catch fire it is unlikely to the point where they don’t need fire suppression systems.

Some cars have fire suppression systems but those are race cars. Built differently to maximize performance. (or military vehicles)

Similiar there are 3D-printer that might benefit from a fire suppression system but the run of the mil 3D-printer won’t need it.

Not convinced? Look at CNC-mills or swiss lathes. Those are designed to run nonstop for years in a production environment at the highest speeds to maximize production. Most of them don’t have a fire suppression system (they do have a mist extraction/collector to prevent them from exploding).

I like BambuLab. They handled the issue seriously. Resolved it and now it is fixed.

What I meant with low end China is like QIDI-tech having exposed 230V (not fixing it), Tronxy choosing high and low voltage wires with the same color and no PE connection to the chassis, Ankermake having issues with the heatbed insulation (not fixing that either) and crushed wires. That’s just three examples and don’t expect that other companies are better. BambuLab is a rare exception.

Once you teardown “industrial”/professional machines the point of view changes: PE connections, strain relief, drag chain rated cables with appropriate bend radius, crimped ferrules instead of solder on wire ends, … they are built to last and run 24/7 without catching fire…

The best protection is a machine that is well build:

We have ovens in our kitchens that are designed to reach upto 400°C (for cleaning) and nobody is afraid of them catching fire. Why? They are engineered to be safe.

Similiar a 3D printer that has good engineering is safe and doesn’t require an automatic fire extinguisher.

If we talk about low-end China printers then the answer is they might not be as safe but the solution is to fix them instead of adding the fire suppression system.

Styrol isn’t a particle that settles down like dust. It is a liquid with a significant enough vapor pressure to be problematic.

An activated carbon filter can get rid of the vapor.

Form 2 is challenging to operate for a newbie:

• laser -> “special” resin required. Formlabs recently moved on to LCDs meaning in the years to come the last third-party manufacturers will stop producing those resins as demand further declines. Leaving the first-party FormLabs as the only option ($100+/kg).
• Difficult to maintain resin tank. Requires a vacuum oven and an upfront investment of roughly $150 for chemicals. There are conversion kits/prints for FEP film to resolve this limitation.