A 2.4 will be better than an Ender 3, but there are better options out there. The flying gantry is a solution in search of a problem, the gantry is heavy and not particularly rigid, Voron toolheads don’t cool particularly well, the rigid bed mounting is a recipe for bed taco, etc.

Which isn’t to say that V2s are bad printers – they can turn out great prints. But if you’re starting fresh today, I’d seriously consider any number of printers over it.

If you want to stay within the Voron ecosystem for whatever reason, the Trident’s a better design. It still lacks things like kinematic bed mounting that are standard fair on other designs today, though. I’d stay away from Tap on any of them – I’m still baffled that thing gets promoted as being a good idea.

In terms of bang for your buck, it’s incredibly difficult to beat the VzBot kits. It’ll be a less expensive and more capable machine than a V2.4. There are panels available to enclose it. I don’t love the Z stage on it, but I can overlook it given the value the rest of the printer gets you.

The Annex K3 is an absolutely killer little machine, but is only 180x180 build volume. The small build volume is free rigidity, though, and K3s can be made true high temp capable with less relative effort than a lot of printers. I’m not as big a fan of the larger Annex printers (K1/K2), personally.

The Rat Rig v-Core was probably the best value CoreXY before the VzBot kits came around. Enclosing them is more of a challenge due to all the PETG parts, though. The EVA toolhead provides a ton of flexibility for mixing and matching parts, if that’s your thing.

In terms of take it out of the box and print, nothing beats the Bambu X1 and P1P. They’re great units. They’re a closed ecosystem though, and not modification friendly if that’s what you want.

My main workhorse printer’s a Railcore II. Great machine, but the design’s aging and I generally wouldn’t recommend a new build today outside of a few very specific applications. It was cutting edge when the design was released in 2018, but, as with the 2.4, the wider community has learned a lot since then about fundamental printer design and there are better options now.

I just build my Voron 2.4 last month as an upgrade to my riced out Ender 3, and I absolutely love it. Highly recommend the build and printer. I went through magic phoenix for a kit, and picked up a couple extra things I wanted along the way, but they weren’t necessary. Took about 24 days to arrive after placing the order with DHL shipping.

I printed all the parts myself in ASA on the ender. In hindsight, someone else with a better printer would have done a better job, but only marginally. I was surprised how well my ender did on that much ASA.

I’m still tuning the voron, but the defaults in orca slicer have been doing well so far, and it’s fast, I mean really fast. Right now mine has a bit of over extrusion, but that just needs to be tuned a bit more. I’ve seen people on line pump out some amazing prints on the v2.4.

I imagine everything you’re looking for will be satisfied by the Voron, either 2.4 or trident. I wanted a 350^3 tho, so I went with the 2.4

I have experience with the Voron 2.4. I built mine a little over a year ago and absolutely love it.

The V2.4 crew pride themselves on print quality. I mean, just look at what is required to be part of the PIF (PrintItForward) program. I can personally attest that print quality is amazing, and I have printed ABS, ASA, PLA, and PETG and had success with all. The enclosure can be built with easily removable clips so you can change from one setup to another.

There are also tons of mods out, like the Nevermore, which would help reduce those bad air particles from printing ABS.

I’ve heard of V2.4 printers reaching 300mm/sec print speeds. I usually run everyday prints around 80-150.

If you want to eventually try multi-material printing, then you will want to check out the ERCF project.

You should know that the Voron build process is maybe 1% of your work on this thing. You will be tinkering with ini scripts and print settings for years after your first benchy. For example, you’ll probably want to install the Klicky mod (or some other Z probe mod) and Auto-Z leveling. With QGL and Auto-Z your prints will start within roughly 0.02mm of the perfect first layer every time. But all this will take time to setup and configure.

On top of all that, the Voron discord community is amazing. If you need help with a print issue, someone will help you.

If you have any other questions, lemme know!

The Voron community is a bit like a cult. Do everything by their book and you will have a good printer and many friends. But do not start to ask too many whys or modify your machine in an unapproved way.

I reccomend to keep your printer, install klipper and keep on tinkering.