I had the same realization. I spent 3-4 hours fiddling with different settings, with no impact, and then 1 hour drying did the trick!!

Also, there are lots of KB stls out there. OP printed this one, and thought it was good enough to share (and I agree). So, it’s useful to know which particular one they used. And, if it’s not their stl, then linking is a way of giving credit to the stl author too. One more point: any issues or adjustments they made, for that particular stl, are useful to know (like they posted below, finally).

I see the OP did update with the stl below. But I wanted to post here to say it’s just good manners to add a reference for the specific stl of a print that was good enough to share.

Wow, I want this! But I don’t have any googly eyes. If only there was a way I could make some…

Gonna tell my kids this is why the tooth fairy needs their teeth.

Here’s something that took me a while to realize and I haven’t seen mentioned much: check where the start/stop points are on each layer (z-seam) and adjust so that they’re not right on parts of the model that are small or need to be more precise (teeth, threads, hinge bumps, etc). I was having a real hard time with some print-in-place hinges, and the problem was that the layers were starting right near the hinge. The finer details were getting globbed up with the bit of extra filament there. Once I moved the z seam, it printed like a charm.