walden

Thanks for posting this!

Big trouble, mister. They’re gonna git you!

I feel ya. Make a fake GitHub account, maybe?

Or manually download each custom component that you want?

That link has a period at the end, at least in Jerboa. Here’s a non-period link. https://github.com/home-assistant/core/pull/110930

Yup just checking to eliminate anything obvious.

Just checking, you’re using a supported device, right?

I installed it and so far so good.

I’m most interested in the new Thermostat Card features, but haven’t been able to figure out how to enable it. The post said it’s disabled by default.

Edit: the “New version of the front end is available” pop up eventually showed itself, and now the option is there. Cool!

https://yellow.home-assistant.io/faq/#which-ssds-are-not-supported

That’s all I could find

I’ve played around some with the events node feeding into a debug node and trying to find “Notifications”, but no luck so far.

There are “ways” to download movies.

Download the movie and cast it?

Garages just need a momentary dry-contact switch wired up where the button is (or you can get a ladder and place it closer to the motor).

I use a Sonoff 4CH Pro which could do up to 4 garage doors. Surely there are other dry contact options, but that’s the one I use.

It’s flashed with Tasmota, and each switch is set to stay on for a fraction of a second, like a button press.

For sensors I use z-wave door sensors. The magnet is taped to the door, and the sensor is installed above it. I copied and pasted some yaml from somewhere to make Home Assistant display everything properly. It’s pretty slick!

This is in my covers.yaml file (referenced from config.yaml, of course).

        garage_1:
          friendly_name: Garage 1
          device_class: garage
          value_template: "{{ is_state('binary_sensor.garage_1', 'on') }}"
          open_cover:
            - condition: state
              entity_id: binary_sensor.garage_1
              state: "off"
            - service: switch.turn_on
              target:
                entity_id: switch.garage_1_toggle
          close_cover:
            - condition: state
              entity_id: binary_sensor.garage_1
              state: "on"
            - service: switch.turn_on
              target:
                entity_id: switch.garage_1_toggle
          stop_cover:
            service: switch.turn_on
            target:
              entity_id: switch.garage_1_toggle
          icon_template: >-
            {% if is_state('binary_sensor.garage_1', 'on') %}
              mdi:garage-open
            {% else %}
              mdi:garage
            {% endif %}

Their API breaking is nothing new. I ditched it years ago since it stopped working every couple of months.

Of course an official announcement is more serious, but still.

If you plan on printing small things, I’d recommend checking your library first. My library has one that’s free to use, I just have to stay at the library while it’s printing, and it has to be while that section of the library is open, which is usually 4 hours at a time.

I’ve seen other libraries that charge a small fee to print.

This way you can get your foot in the door to make sure you enjoy it, and by using their machine/software you can get a feel for what you might want in your own printer.

FYI, the only way to double the capacity using multiple batteries is to run them in parallel. You are running them in series (to double the voltage), so the overall capacity remains the same, in this case 1000mAh.

The only similar integration for Ford is only available through HACS. Maybe this could be installed that way?

I don’t know of a good list, but if you start looking through the integrations on the website, what you’re looking for is “Local Push” or “Local Poling”. Local Push is better.

I have a bunch of WiFi devices flashed with Tasmota. If you’re handy with a soldering iron (arguably optional but makes it a little easier), you can stock up on Sonoff Basic switches and flash them. The stock firmware doesn’t work with HA. The Tasmota website lists a bunch of devices that it works on. ESPHome is a similar project.

Going this route isn’t quite “just works” since there’s tinkering involved, but there are other, more expensive options. Shelly is a popular brand but I’ve never used one.

I’ve used TP-Link Kasa switches/outlets before and they work well. I believe in recent years they’ve disabled the ability to turn off cloud features, meaning you have to be ok with them having access to the devices, or you can block them with a firewall rule. Local control still works either way.

I also use a lot of z-wave switches, mostly from Zooz. If it’s going inside the wall, I want it to be certified for that purpose so I’ll pay extra for the safety.

Finally there’s HomeKit. If you’re device supports it, you can have local control. Just set the device up using HomeKit instead of whatever cloud polling option there might be available. This might be an option for Tuya, for example.

A USB dongle, yes. I think mine is a 700 series which was a little buggy for a while. It has been fixed with updates. I believe there’s an 800 series now, but I haven’t read anything about it.

Nice thing about z-wave is there’s one “company” in charge of the tech who licenses it out, so the market isn’t flooded with crap. Downside to that is higher cost typically. That’s my understanding of it at least.

I have close to 30 z-wave devices. Some are hard wired, some USB powered, some battery powered. I’m mostly happy with it, and things have gotten a lot of polish in the past couple of years. Z-wave JS is very good. I’ve been using Z-Wave JS UI which does the same thing but has a UI along with it. It’s unnecessary and has a more complicated setup, so stick with Z-Wave JS.

The only thing I run into on occasion is slow response time. It usually happens after an update and works itself out in time, or worst case after a reboot. Otherwise things are good and fast.

I also have a ton of wifi devices (and enough WiFi backbone to support them all). Most lamps in the house have a sonoff basic wired in.

I don’t know anything about homekit, but the best way (albeit with some learning curve) is to use a reverse proxy. Installing Nginx Proxy Manager in docker is maybe the easiest way.

Then you forward porta 80 and 443 (http and https) to the IP of NPM.

Buy a domain or use something like duckdns. This will make a URL like “homeassistant.duckdns.org” (for example) that points to your home IP address. You can manually update your home IP(most aren’t static) or have software update it automatically. You can also skip this step and just type your IP into the address bar of your browser (or the Home Assistant app). You’ll have to keep it updated manually this way.

So you visit that URL, it goes through your router to Nginx Proxy Manager, and you tell NPM to forward that stuff to the internal IP of Home Assistant. NPM can create certificates to make it all secure, and the login is handled by Home Assistant as normal.

There is additional config in config.yaml to allow your reverse proxy. This adds an additional layer of security.