Just isolate the problem, is the rule of thumb. If you can replicate the issue reliably, it’s fixable. At worst, it limits the number of variables you are working with, which is still awesome in its own way.

My only other thought would be a bizarre stepper motor skip, which would lead me to start checking wiring and such.

I don’t resin print, but it looks like there is a missing layer or two. The ripples in the interface layers at the bed were confusing me at first, but that seems like it they were formed in the resin not being attached to anything. The rest of the print is failing at the same layers of those strange ripples.

My guess would be a mechanical issue with the main Z screw, like there is something in that part of the thread that is causing it to lift a bit higher than it should. If it was completely loose, the rest of the print wouldn’t be viable.

Clean the threads of the screw and try to replicate that error at those layers with a test print. Isolate the problem, is my advice.

This part is really funky:

Are you in their buyable models section? They recently opened up a way for creators to sell models.

The mold was likely 24mm. There could be some shrinkage or a the shot of plastic was a bit light for that set.

Or, it was actually 23.22mm and the dimensions were calculated from another reference point, like PCB or LCD size. If anything, .22mm was supposed to be .25mm clearance.

Translating CAD into plastic and back into CAD can be a very strange thing sometimes.

Edit: I reverse engneer a ton of things in CAD. Sometimes just some calipers work, but for curves, pictures + calipers + gauges are the way to go. Sometimes, if you get core dimensions correct, the correct curves can “emerge” from the design itself, but that is a somewhat rare dark art. Pro-tip: A reverse engineered part is almost never going to be perfect, but almost always has the potential to be better than the original.

Just playing a guessing game here…

The nozzle was probably already loose, for starters. It may have been possible for the nozzle to catch on the print with a blob that was forming from the loose nozzle.

Once the nozzle was stuck to the print, it got ripped off the bed and the movement of the gantry likely caused the print to spin. If a “leg” kept getting caught on something during travel, that would make sense.

After a few dozen moves, presto! Nozzle is unscrewed and is now one with the print.

Unless something in the hotend was actually broken to cause this, it’s a perfect example of why nozzles should be tightened at a higher than normal temperature. Loose nozzle == bad time.

Glad you found it. It’s been a feature for over a year or so and maybe longer now. It was driving me crazy before the patch, for sure.

I am willing to bet that your object is confusing the slicer fairly bad, or at least, making the original issue you had look much worse. Any path optimization got destroyed by those comb-like features, I bet.

The downside to this (especially if your PID tuning is off) is that continuous printing of a large top layer can suck a ton of heat from the nozzle. In the worst cases, you get a jam and risk grinding your extruder as the filament stops melting fast enough. The “normal” mode of offset lines gives the hotend a bit more time to recover between sections. (I believe Revo-style hotends mitigate most of that problem because of the uniformity of heating.) Still, this problem is fairly rare but it has happened to me on occasion.

lovable

I get it. You are being a kind soul. However, that word might be misplaced.

That is picture of an actual tabloid. It was in reference to a tabloid being about Star Trek, not about your actual question.

If any of these are an extension of our timeline, it’s likely that all newspapers are trash: https://memory-alpha.fandom.com/wiki/Newspaper

That’s the best I got unless you want to also discuss tabloids with Star Trek related stories…

I use my printer when I need it. Once I learned CAD, the need to print toys and trinkets basically evaporated. (I did just print a tiny guitar for my daughter for Christmas as a placeholder for a trip to the guitar store after the holidays were over.)

The printer is now an extremely useful tool. The drawback is that I don’t use as much filament and have had a few spools degrade on me. It’s no biggie, but it’s a time suck to dry it and get it usable again.

(reference)

(I can’t disagree with you, cause you ain’t wrong. ;) I do probably need to clarify my point though.)

That is exactly my point about the device not being UL rated. More than once, I have needed to add or replace poor ground connections to the chassis of some device, when applicable. If there is a failure point, it’s usually where there were cost savings is involved and generally not with the charging circuit itself.

Most battery charging ICs have decent fail-safes for bad batteries. It’s just economical to use the same, or similar, generic IC across hundreds of products. (The TP4056 (and clones) is a decent example of wide adoption, but it’s not quite a 1:1 with this particular application. It has good trickle charging and a temperature safety, but not battery chemistry logic, that I am aware of.)

Again, it’s just something to look for when inspecting rando devices. To your point, cloned charge regulators may have deleted safeties, so that is a thing.

You really don’t know the risks unless you open it and minimally reverse engineer it. The charger shouldn’t be very complicated and it’s not directly connected to mains so that is nice. Charging chips are super simple and there are not too many ways to screw those up, unless they do.

If anything at all is shady, it’ll be the power brick or the way the USB plug is powered. If the brick is crap and somehow starts passing mains, I am willing to bet that the USB plug will pass the bulk of the current through you or whatever is connected to it. It’s something to check, anyway.

I just always say a character that is tall and in heavy makeup is Doug Jones. 1 out of 10 times I am probably correct.

Riker is awesome. Dunno why people keep talking about this Frakes guy.

What is wrong with a little synthphetamines, synthium or synthanyl washed down with a nice tall glass of synthehol? Oh. Crack cocaine you say? Straight to brig.

Don’t copy the code directly from any company assets. There are plenty of ways to track code and data theft these days, so don’t even attempt it. I am just saying that as a friendly reminder.

Honestly, there is not much that a company can do unless they specially own the business logic of what you are doing. Are there aspects to the code that apply to internal proprietary software? That probably isn’t wise to share.

While I am not a lawyer, a general rule of thumb is that if you think you might be stealing something, you probably are. Anything you do on company time, is technically owned by that company.

If your previous work gets discarded by that company, never talk about it again. Never code it again for that company and just let the idea die, as far as that company is concerned. Independently resurrect the idea at a later date.

Nobody here can really tell you what to do, btw. Quite honestly, if you think that you can claim ownership of what you have, pay a few hundred bucks for a consultation with a lawyer.

That is the #1 thing that is mentioned every time this topic comes up.

Futurama was always about pop culture references. So much so, there are lists.

Maybe it was just a little more direct this season or most of us are older and we noticed it more.