Have you considered shimming your bed? Keep in mind that also X/Y rods (frame in your case) might be a reason for that. Flipping (rotating) rods might get you closer to a solution. Inspect each axis and plate individually (with light behind the ruller for example). Not the answer that you were looking for, but Id always try to fix the hardware first. BL touch is doing nothing, but only correcting hardware issues. Not needed if you fix them 😜 It will be easier with ABL on better tuned printer. Also you might find that you dont need one (hopefully)

Well I said much better UI, but its subjective.

Also, I think you can use octoprint with klipper fw, but never tried that. Mainsail+klipper is my vote

They are both good!

I believe they both have pressure advance and resonance compensation. With klipper you get option for much better UI (Mainsail OS in my case) and you can change your config in a web browser.

Not always. Its 5-15 k € for a license with 1 year of updates. Many small companies find a way just like students do. Its just more user friendly and more powerfull. Im afraid Im too old to see foss on that level before I die, but Im sure it will get there one day.

I love the idea of 3D CAD foss on lemmy. Im gonna follow and hope it gets better and more popular

Or oven better CAD modeling community.

Id like to see solidworks community on lemmy

Yeah its 3x price so not worth if you achieve the same goal. Personally Id try to avoid bed slinger, but if I was buying one I would go for prusa just because I know they are approved. But if I was buying 200ish € printer id probably go for ender just because they take more than half of 3d printing content on the internet. I dont know much about sovol tho

Mate calling people morons because they buy a device and dont know how to use it is kinda funny, especcially if we talk about 3D printers. I bet you were one when you started, I was and most of people were. Im in this hobby 10+ years and still learning. When first DIY printers were made with threaded rods and zip ties people knew less than we do right now, but they were extremely important for us to have decent hoby machine at home that normal people can afford. Also talking like that about prusa and 1/5 price knockoffs performing the same feels like you have 0 experience with cheap knockoffs. Maybe you wanted to say 4/5 or 3/5? Support is not just about leveling your bed, good support can mean you get what you payed for and replacement parts if they are faulty. Cheap knockoffs tend to send faulty parts or frame and then not responding to email. Cheap knockoffs tend to clone brands like prusa, but they miss some important bits and then sell bad design that just look simmilar. Im not favoring prusa, I dont like bed slingers at all, but its the name that has been around for many years with good reputation. I dont want to be rude, but this is 3D printing forum for any skill level and mostly hoby/home machines. Building a voron is already advanced, but your suggestions are opposite of usefull for begginers.

OP had ender and he is looking for another device that is more plug&play and you suggest ender level machine or even cheaper. Its just wrong IMO

Prusa is more expensive and better mostly because its built better, not because of software. Any open source (marlin) board can be updated by user and its also easy to flash klipper for example.

Constant readjustments are due to bad design and no QC. If you want more reliable printer dont look for knockoffs. My first printer was prusa knockoff, it looks better than prusa, steel frame with no printed parts, but its not even close. Its collecting dust now

Yeah its wierd as f. But I guess bad gcode file did that. If you are using browser there is a button to upload pics just above textbox. You can eddit your main post or just put it in comment

Whats on the picture?

Bots are only allowed to post in communities they have the explicit permission from the community’s owners to do so.

Did 3D printing community state anything about that? I dont mind posts like this, but I dont see it as way of getting more people on lemmy or helpfull. But if its helping anyhow kepp doing it

Whats the point of botting posts from reddit to lemmy? Trying to make lemmy more active or something else?

20x20x20 cm part can take a day to print. Speed matters ofc, but its not just about acceleration and max speed. Bigger nozzle can move slower and still print faster. Working printer prints faster than non working lol. Prusa is amazing, but be aware mini + is bed slinger with only one side of X gantry supported. I dont like that, but its still much better than ender like machines just because its built better and you get better support instead of faulty parts and design flaws. But if you are more into moding and debugging, enders are so cheap and they will make sure you know where is your allen key screwdriver. Both ways you can achieve amazing prints and have loads of fun. Even if you go for more expensive machine be prepared for begginer failures which can be quite frustrating.

You are too close everywhere. Im not using abl, but dont expect perfection from it. I believe if you increase offset it will be good everywhere. Machine can deal with small error, but not if its too much

In all metal hotend ptfe should not go all the way to the nozzle. Nozzle should be tightened against the heat break to stop heat from going upwards. Ptfe just guides the filament, upper area is not heated and therefore cant leak unlike ender style hot end that requires pressure between ptfe tube and heated nozzle.

Yeah all metal is proper way of doing it , even tho lot of people had great success with stock hot end. Im confused because it looks like OP have all metal

Is this your hotend?

You moded your hotend by any chance?

It looks like overextrusion, but Im not sure. Did you change overlap settings?

I would try with taller cube to eliminate 1st layer error. You might be overextruding, but due to higher nozzle distance your first layer can still look perfect

Any brand will work. I dont like glue, but its easy to apply and also clean it with water. Glue can fix huge problems like uneven bed, wrong temp etc. You are facing common 3D printing problems. Not sticking to the bed and curling. It can be frustrating, get some patience and you will sort it out.

You did major upgrades, so tunning is hard to avoid. Do PID tuning for your hotend, your temps might be not stable. Check your hotend mount for play. Make sure your part cooling fan is off on the first layer. More squish, higher temp and low speed are your friends. Try with 205/60 C and 10-15 mm/s. Check your retraction, you might have oozing that can cause not sticking at first. If you are printing tiny parts like 5 mm circles on first layer you need to have crazy dialed printer to print that consistently. Still possible of course, but even then some issues at start /end of extrusion can occur. 0.24 mm first layer height is much easier to print than 0.15, simmilar thing with nozzle size. Your filament might be shit, better filaments are more forgiving.

Print 1 layer square and take a picture. Lines must fuse and surface shouldnt be rough when touching it. If you didnt print 100 squares dont give up yet 😉

Edit: any PVA glue stick (the one that is used by kids in school to glue paper)