I’ve been fairly happy with Alfred locks using ZigBee. There’s still a Bluetooth+App component to those as well for adding choices but you don’t need it to use ZigBee for locking/unlocking or viewing status.
Don’t use the wifi bridge though. I briefly tried that and it connects to some address hosted in AliCloud of all frigging places
Yeah that seems weird. I have some wood PLA and it very much looks (and sounds) like wood especially once you smooth it out and paint/stain it. Pretty much seems like a printable version of wood-filler
I have a little 3D printed housing which I keep my power supply and controller in. Thus far it’s survived 3+ years outdoors with winters hitting below -30°c and summers above 30°c.
Biggest issue I’ve had so far has been the getting the strips to stay in place where they’re tacked under the overhang
I’ve always wanted to make something like a Glados model on a moving extension, with a built in mic+speaker+camera. :-)
Yeah mine is 7.8" so if you happen to publish that base it should fit. Thanks!
Nice! I’ve got a somewhat non-standard sized ePaper tablet that I’ve been trying to find a keyboard case for.
Might just modify/size this and build one instead. Thanks for sharing your work!
Are you planning on motorizing it or just setting it manually?
You can set the automation to fire after a reasonable delay, so that if something is firing continuously you aren’t getting constant/overlapping messages.
Not with any of the ones I’ve bought recently (also from AExpress)
Works with standard HomeAssistant automation and the various “notify” channels as well. If you’ve got a smart/wifi speaker of some sort you could also use Piper to send custom TTS messages like “the bathtub is full”
Just a consideration on this, but would they not also use up more battery as a “dry” sensor (assuming they use batteries as the ones I have do).
For leaks, the sensor activates when water bridges the poles, which should be a rare thing. For dry, you’d be in a constant state of activation - which I presume requires passing a current through the fluid between poles - and thus consume more battery.
They do but due to the lack of good labeling it’s hard to tell which one you’re getting in stores. A very large portion of stuff produced after mid-2022 doesn’t work - at least with Tasmota - and their website does note that
I used to love the Blakadder site but now I’m mostly finding “this device will only work if you have an older version” as the newer chips roll out which don’t support Tasmota. I’ve been looking at OpenBeken as an alternative but the documentation and process for that one seems much more confusing to be.
I’m hoping that sometime we might see a consolation of projects so that we can get Tasmota support on e.g. CB2S etc services
That shotgun shell USB stick looks cool, though I could see it being a bit bulky for many rigs
For the Tuya stuff, is there anything special you needed to do in other to get them working with HASS? Most pages seem to indicate you need Tuya’s hub, which seems off
Ditto. I haven’t played with ESPHome but for general devices I only use stuff that I can flash with Tasmota (or stuff that comes pre-flashed).
Except for HASS itself - which has limited access - none of my IoT stuff can get to the internet
That one you can ask enjoy even today regardless though. It’s not the story that made it, is the gameplay
I actually bought LTTP before I bought a SNES… The game itself wasn’t easy to get in my area and I happened to be out of town and ran across a copy, so it was an easy decision
Good thing they never tried to make a sequel to that one. I’m sure it would have been aweful
/s :-)
Yeah, I’ve had a few sellers among a lot of orders try to pull a fast one, but by-and-large they’ve been good and the few that arrived bad I did get refunded for. The main thing I’d say is to be careful of things that plug in but don’t meet electrical code in your country (Amazon is getting bad for this as well) as that’s definitely some janky stuff you can find