N3Cr0

Carmageddon and GTA were quite some bangers, and I think they still are. Or Age of Empires 1&2.

Honorable mentions:

• Dark Project
• Soul Reaver
• Blood Omen
• King’s Quest
• Ballistics
• Dethkarz
• Ken’s Labyrinth
• The Settlers

You did some decent engineering on a cheap disposable pen. I hope it was worth the effort.

The closest games that come to my mind are Schiffbruch and Stranded.

Side note: You don’t need to level the bed after each nozzle change. Keeping this in mind saves quite some time and effort.

I change nozzles depending on the project.

0.4 and 0.5 are nice for smaller parts with fine details. But for mineatures / small figures, I tend to 0.3 or even 0.2 nozzles. 0.1 only for exceptional small and detailled works, since these nozzles constantly tend to clogging. And then there are taller parts which have to be strong, like shelf brackets or vases. That’s where my 0.8 and even 1.0 mm nozzles do shine.

Last, but not least: You don’t need a high-flow hotend for wider nozzles. Any hotend will do (tested with an old Ender2), as long as you adjust speed and temperature accordingly. Some trial and error is the key.

MUDs (Multi User Dungeons - The massive multiplayer text adventure RPGs that came before the term “MMORPG” has been invented) may be your friend. Games like unitopia.de. All you need is a telnet client (built-in in almost all operating systems).

You can search for CRT RGB mod tutorials. I hope that will help with your specific TV model.

Open it up. locate the RGB input lines. Maybe add some caps and then add a proper connector (SCART/SUB-D/RCA/BNC) to the case.

It’s a some work, but it’s worth it.

The Sega Master System version is pretty impressive.

I added a Yamaha FM chip to my console, similar to the chip in japanese consoles. It turned out, the game uses the added sound channels when it detects the chip.