Kept forgetting to tell you, you will want this for your ams and I use these for dryboxes. You can just grab some totes from the dollar tree or somewhere cheap and throw those in with the filament. Quick and easy way to keep your filament dry.

Here’s a hygrometer stand of the same type so you can keep it uniform.

Fill them with this stuff here.

Make sure it’s the rechargeable kind so you can just keep redrying it and you’ll never run out.

This is all especially important if you plan on printing PETG. PETG is affected much more by moisture than PLA.

Well support structure will be needed on overhangs and stuff like that so don’t write it off.

I don’t use it much since I’m mostly printing things that don’t need it as they were designed to print in place.

No, no. I offered assistance.

What do I do with the white one? Put it in the last slot? Does the machine know when to use the white one as a support?

I don’t use the support filament as I have enough filament that using a bit for a model or two here or there isn’t a huge loss. However, you can use the Bambu Studio program and “paint” the support structures with that filament and it will use that instead of whatever normal filament you are using.

(Note on this, because these machines use NFC for the official bambu filaments, it might do it automatically. Don’t count on that though and always double check.)

You can keep it in your AMS anywhere you like, but for those onboard print files, it typically uses AMS slot one.

What would you consider is your favorite filament to work with? I’m thinking of splurging on a set off ebay. But at the same time, are discount filaments ok?

I love Inland filaments because I’m close to a Microcenter and can go and physically look at them before purchasing them. If you aren’t close to a Microcenter though, Inland filaments are Polymaker and eSun.

If you plan to get cheap filament, make sure you keep your bed as clean as you can because you want to rule that out immediately if there is an issue. I use Isopropyl alcohol before every print to remove any grease/oil/dust from the bed.

And do you use a special plate? People have mentioned golden ones that are easier to bend to pop out the build? Mine just scraped off fairly easy. And I’ve read to use hairspray or windex to make it easier to pop off later.

I use the standard PEI plate that comes with the machine. I allow the bed to cool off in the machine and then get the print off. Makes it much easier.

Controlling these printers is best done from a PC. Bambu Studio will give you the most options to control your prints. The Bambu Handy app works great as well but I find it limiting.

It’s ok, my dude. We all make simple mistakes like this. I’ve cost myself entire rolls of filament before. If you ever have any questions, give me a shout, I’ll give you a hand.

These printers calibrate themselves.

Not sure, I’ve never opened mine.

This is it here: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/support-for-pla?variant=40524454723720

TDS says it’s still PLA.

Is that white filament the one that came with it? If it is, it is only meant as support material. Use the orange or green in AMS slot one and try again.

Makes you wonder what corners they cut to get it functional.

Xubuntu Minimal 24.04

Why not just do Mint XFCE then? At least that way there’s no snap to deal with.

Great beginner distro for sure. On par with Mint with “it just works”.

Btw. Good luck copying it without going through half a dozen of iterations.

Go and recreate it. Nobody stops you.

It’s your attitude. This post is better off in one of the functional print communities anyways.

From my experience that glitter filament seems to absorb moisture a little faster than some filaments. I keep mine in a drybox all the time.

I was hoping for a riveting book about metal oxidation, tbh. Oh well, a man can dream.

Damn it. Another time I get tricked by the name of this language.