IIRC when looking into this originally, there are multiple tools necessary due to additional metadata on the MCs: mcpaste for PS1 saves, psupaste for PS2 saves, and the PS3 uses an entirely different format that needs to be converted prior to use (I don’t remember if you need to jailbreak to get the keys for this)

Felt there was a bit too much manual stuff involved which could allow human error to come in and mess something up. I did do a copy + psupaste to the internal HDD on a new partition just in-case, but there was no way I was going to risk copying those back onto my only memory card to test if it actually was done right 😅

The original MC was near full as well, so it’s pretty nice to also be able to spin up new ones when needed (to be fair I believe OPL has a similar feature built in, although some games may freeze using it)

This kind of stuff happens all the time IMO, we’re human and not perfect 🤷‍♂️

I don’t know how much of a help ChatGPT would be in this situation without access to your schema, at least with Copilot you can write a comment in the code explaining what you’re trying to do and get some usable pointers in the generated suggestion (which takes your codebase into account).

I usually try to get a second pair of eyes on my code if something that seems relatively simple isn’t working as expected… As you gain more experience these mistakes will become less common, and easier to spot

I’m looking into printing with ASA eventually - have you tried skirts on an ASA print? (Not sure what other slicers call it - it’s a wall that is printed around the print to shield drafts)

I don’t have an enclosure on my delta so was considering that as an alternative.

I had a similar stringing issue with PETG on my flsun Q5, where PLA was printing flawless without any strings whatsoever. Since your SR isn’t a bowden, that mostly rules out retraction distance IMO.

For me I narrowed it down to Z-hop: as the printer was lifting the nozzle slightly to move to another part of the print, molten filament oozed out - sticking to the print, and getting stringed across by the nozzle. I only noticed after recording the print (use at least 60fps to avoid the frame blurring you’ll get at 30> and watching what exactly was happening prior to the stringing. It took about 4 hours to get to that point 😭

If orcaslicer is based on Prusaslicer, wipe on retract with the initial distance set to 100% may not trigger a wipe. Try 70% or 80% instead. There’s another setting somewhere to force retraction when changing layers: enabling this will forcibly honor your wipe retraction preference when changing print layer.

I think you may still get stringing at the really spiky parts of the test print, given there’s no space for a wipe, and that volcano is going to hold way more molten filament than a V6 or similar

Hopefully someone with more experience can add their 2¢, it was pretty difficult to research info online when I had PETG stringing - everything just says “tune your retraction” 😤

Edit: I mixed up the SR with the v400! In that case, Another thing to check is your bowden tube pneumatic couplers - unload the filament and tug lightly on each to see if they’re fitting securely. If they’re loose, your extruder can end up moving the bowden tube itself back and forwards, which affects your retraction

Originally I watched the ad and couldn’t see what was wrong with it (from the perspective of a relatively isolated software developer).

However the top comment on the Verge summed it up in a way I understood, making comparisons to the crushing of various creative devices in the ad (instruments, cameras, paints etc) and the current creative landscape in reality (game studios, music production etc).

With that in mind, the timing is pretty poor IMO and feels quite insensitive to creative individuals

Feed that beast into a CPAP cooling duct setup, the part will pretty much go flying across the room when bridging lol

Apple opted to use a proprietary internal ribbon connector for the wlan 😭 there is a reverse engineered third party adapter available but the cost isn’t worth it for me

You know what’s coming…

Nice.

On a serious note though that must be annoying, having just 70% battery to work with when you expected 100% is not great

Do you mean heic? That format is absolute wizardry as far as i’m concerned, achieving really small filesizes. The only downside IMO is it doesn’t seem to handle things like screenshots very well, with noticeable artifacting around text and sharp contrasty things

Similar boat here with a Mid 2012 MBP. Build quality is amazing, Linux runs great, and the touchpad gestures work really well.

My only complaint is Broadcom’s awful blob WLAN driver, the libre alternative driver is more stable but sadly 1/4 of the speed

From what I understand (based on smaller printed buildings anyway) it’s identical to FDM 3d printing pretty much, except that instead of filament, a massive onsite silo contains a liquefied cement-like mixture. The nozzle also has a valve of some sort to immediately stop flow.

Typically one operator has a computer running the printer host software, and others manually fix-up print errors (and things like blobs) while the mixture is still damp. A paperclip shaped rebar is also inserted into the walls every few layers for additional structural integrity

There are challenges with things like rainfall retention in walls during construction, but various companies have their own way of dealing with that from what I understand…

Due to the mixture it’s usually restricted to walls AFAICT. Overhangs like doorways need beam supports to be inserted into the structure beforehand