If anyone is interested, the problem was due to packing material not being completely removed from under the printbed.

So, the PSU voltage switch is for setting input voltage. You might be running it on 110V instead of 230V, though unlikely but it doesn’t hurt to check.

Checking the y motor and endstop wiring I recommended because I had a similar problem on my x-axis when my motor wire and endstop wire came loose, where the motor was jittering and buzzing, but not moving.

The .cfg file is the configuration file for Klipper firmware, which is taylored for your printer. Since you said that your firmware issues got fixed I don’t think that’s it, but if nothing else, redownload and reinstall the .cfg file and if that does not help, reinstall klipper as a last resort. Do so only if nothing else helps.

If you need more help, I could help you through video chat. Just DM me.

Just in case, check the PSU Voltage. Check the plugs on the Y axis motor. Worst case, you might need to redownload the CFG file for your printer. Try that. Write again if none of that works.

What country are you located in?

So I have used the sv06 and had a bit of a run in with the sv07. Both are decent machines with their own quirks. The sv06 needs bearings replaced after 3 months of use at the latest, after that runs perfectly. The sv07 uses v-wheels, and is therefore lower maintenance. They both use the same toolhead design and both print well enough. sv07 is a bit more finnicky with cooling (special klipper command for the big fan) but they are both decent machines. I personally run a heavily modified Ender 3 v2, but currently, the Sovols are some of the best bang for the buck. Right now, I would buy the sv06, change the bearings from day one and that’s it. It is basically a 1:1 copy of a Prusa, and printing replacement parts for it is extremely easy, if anything ever breaks. The only thing it “lacks” is a filament sensor (haven’t had the need for one in the time I have been printing), but that is easily added. Do your own research though. Lost in Tech has some great reviews on both machines.

All printers use the same components. Same motors, leadscrews and belts. If the printer is built well, the precision will be the same. You obviously have play in some machines, but due to the variance in filament it can vary from negligible to basically nonexistent. It’s not the machines fault most of the time. Polymers have variance and sometimes unpredictable behaviour. Just part of the game.

So lets start from the top:

1. All printers have the same precision.

2. I guess you’re talking about input shaping, which reduces artifacts and shaking of the printer (a little)

3. Most budget printers right now have lots of the same creature comforts that this printer has.

Right now the biggest things are community/aftermarket support (moddability), price and firmware. You should get Klipper to get input shaping, so that narrows it down. Look for some klipper printers (e.g. Sovol sv07) and decide which one you like best. They are almost all the same, save for qc and qa issues by some companies and sometimes lackluster support. Any printer can produce awesome prints. It’s only a question of how much time you have to fiddle with the settings. Cheers!

Glass bead thermistors have very fragile wires and sometimes you can’t see a break that has occured. I replaced mine with a cartridge as fast as possible, but good on you for finding and solving the problem.

Maybe you need to dry your filament? Blobs and stringing sound like a water boiling problem.

Master spool standard has mesurements the refill is supposed to fit in. The spool is printable on a 200x200 bed, that’s why it’s so popular. Every website I have seen, they state ckearly when compatible so idk.

As far as I know yes.

Fuck any manufacturer who makes their own standard. We have one. We don’t need a new one. Vote with your wallet. Unless the manufacturer specifies they are compatible, don’t buy it. Simple and easy.

Problem is extrusion consistency. If you want them to be affordable, you need to sacrifice precision. We print with 0.4 mm nozzles, and any inconsistency will show up. Plus the color is less uniform. There are already pellet extruders. Cnc kitchen tested one a while back.

I like formfutura filament. Their refills cost like 20 moneys per kg (PLA). Their easyFil PLA is 40. Their brand has the biggest price difference. Usually the difference is up to 5. So still savings.

Master spool standard ftw. Fiberlogy is definitely compatible if you’re curious.

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Was going to do that but kinda broke rn and my SO is already complaining about the amount of filament :). Please send me a link on printables if you do it.

Most refills follow the master spool standard anyway. Esun just had to be special.

Just don’t try to use it with esun filament. It does not work. Even without the cardboard insert. I tried :(.

In prusaslicer, you can set a color change. Or you can edit gcode by hand with the m600 command iirc. But the second way is not recommended

Sure looks like your nozzle is too close to the bed