What filament do you want to use? Well tuned PLA might be able to bridge that far, no chance with PETG. What is your maximum acceptable sag?

It seems like the bridge lines do not attach to anything at the very end on the layer below. In Orca Slicer you need to enable “Ensure vertical thickness” to enforce that. I’d also rotate the bridge direction by 90°, this cuts down the length of the longest bridges by half. Bridge line spacing looks good to me. Make sure that the layer on top of the bridge is printed slowly and does not start in the middle, otherwise it will be pushed back and forth.

If it is just a mock-up, consider partially filling the interior or enabling “make overhangs printable”. Both will alter geometry, but so will excessive sagging.

A lot of people here commented “I do X and it works for me”, but I do not think that is good advice. While it might work fine for that person, there are too many variables that are ignored. Ambient humidity, filament type, printer model, slicer settings, model geometry/details - all of this has an impact on the final print quality.

A more controlled environment removes variables and therefor makes the print result more predictable. Drying filament and storing it properly takes a bit of effort, but it is easy step towards better results.

You don’t even need a dedicated dryer, just use your printers headbed, put 1-3 spools on it and a cardboard box with a few vent holes on top. Set the temperature according to the filament and let it run for 8 hours. Afterwards put the spools into a sealed container (4L cereal box works great), add some silica gel and your done. When it cools back down the relative humidity drops below 10% RH, which is so low that most hygrometers wont even measure it.

I’m casually printing PETG at 260°C, over 20mm³/s (about 300mm/s) and archive reproducible near perfect results with next to no stringing. With bare PLA drying may not matter, I’ve too little experience to give a definitive answer. If you have any composite filament (wood, carbon, sparkle, etc) you definitely should dry it anyway, because you do not know how much the filler changes the properties.

Oh and finally: I place new spools in containers with dry air (a tiny bit of silica gel in them) and measure the equalized humidity after a few days. Most spools were delivered with a humidity of 15-20% RH

I was thinking It would be best to simply offset the inner walls in the xy axis, so that the printer lays down the next extrusion in the groove between two of the previous lines. This is already done with the hexagon infill pattern in orca slicer, but not yet available for inner walls. It would also be helpful to adjust extrusion to deliberately create large grooves bewteen the lines. Outer walls and cosmetic features should of course printed regularly.

The advantage to OP’s approach would be reduced complexity, less z-hopping and reduced risk of collision with already printed parts.

Normally the toolhead should never hit any object. If it does, and the cover detaches, it can be detected and the printer stopped before any significant damage is caused. Fallen off cover > broken machine.

The cover needs to be detachable to change or replace the hotend, and you need to have the cover for basic protection and better airflow control (I assume), and it’s best practice to have a sensor to protect from user error. If the sensor is already there, why not also use it during the print?

This phone was designed poorly, the magnets are doomed to rip the back glass off eventually.

Damn, this makes it even more infuriating that they don’t offer replacement parts :(

Missed opportunity for using micro pattern print plates or fancy infills like hilbert curve. On the plus side the design of the phone is so unique that I immediately knew that Microsoft doesn’t like the right to repair movement.