Wet pla also apparently gets brittle over long periods of time which can cause issues depending on your printer setup. This is only an issue if you are storing spools open for long periods of time.

It’s real nice of them to include a track for us ender 3 owners.

High quality shit post from prusa here, can’t believe they got 5 songs made for an April fools joke.

I have several cheap USB website and they work fine but my best cam is probably the Luke’s lab USB cam I bought, it has or LEDs so it can see in the dark. I had issues with the atlas they provide for the camera case but the image from it is decent in any light which is real good.

Could you not just do something similar to what printers with mains heated beds do and run the bed/hotend heater to a relay and different power bank?

I’ve only done 3 prints with abs but I used a g10 plate and it worked fabulously. I heard one of the damn prints pop off the plate with a snap when the bed dropped below 60c, that was wild to me.

So the same height as George Washington. I hear Malcom Reynolds also has like 50 god damn dicks.

Huh?

Also, it’s out of frame, and we’re seeing him from the back, but Badgey’s dick and balls are fully out

I can confirm this, I saw the uncropped photo while searching through some Badgey R34 content earlier.

Six is the obvious answer but I need to know how good at trombone Odo is before I give a concrete answer.

I just put a toolhead board on one of my ender 3s a couple weeks ago, it was a pain in the ass and not necessary in any way but I’ve since pulled the toolhead off twice and both times it was nice just detaching the single connection and being able to move to my desk to do the work.

Not to poo poo on your theory because this is all fake anyways but to your point brains are weird and we make shit up all the time when we can’t or just don’t understand how something works.

You’re right, I bought my first printer at the beginning of last year I kind of know what reprap is but is be willing to bet my neighbor who bought his first a year plus before me probably has never heard the name.

Did you change the e-steps at all before trying to extruder or are you still using the setting from the old extruder? With the setting for the old extruder the gear reduction on the Sprite might make the filament not look like it’s even when the stepper is turning.

I just installed an orbiter on one of my ender 3s and the first test i still had my e-steps set on the marlin default and I’m not sure the filament moved at all.

That should all be fine, I’m pretty sure the cable in the Sprite pro upgrade kit terminates into jst connectors for the old style boards.

As for octoprint it will run with Klipper but I think it has trouble when trying to push speed, seems like most people recommend mainsail or fluid for the Klipper host.

Ok that fine then, thought that was more then it is.

Next step do a PID tune, that looks fixed but your hotend graph should be way flatter than that with a new PID tune.

My default response is BTT E3 mini v3.0 but since you’re looking to add more steppers something like a BTT Manta might be the way to go. Another option with Klipper is you can use multiple boards, I’ve only looked into this but you can use something like the E3 mini running Kilpper and then use the stock creality board to run up to 4 other steppers plus whatever. You’re going to need a system running Linux for Klipper either a raspberry pi, a VM, or just a cheap PC you’re not using.

Of you have a model file there’s services online, someone else jlpcb and I’m pretty sure shape ways is still a thing. You usually can fine printing services on eBay too.

I’m like 100% sure that’s a PID tune.