I have never found the Gex series to be “exciting,” even when it was new. Gex was always a shallow also-ran mascot in the time when everyone was trying to recapture that lightning in a bottle without understanding how it actually worked, and desperately trying to recreate what Sonic and Earthworm Jim and to a lesser extent Toejam and Earl had.

He was marginally less annoying than Bubsy. That’s about all I can say about Gex.

If I really decide to play some sub-par 90’s platforming stuffed with stilted and dated TV and movie references, my 3DO still works. Yes, really…

You should check out an original Famicom, then. Not only are the controller cables only about two feet long, but they’re also permanently affixed to the console. Well, unless you’re willing to dismantle it, anyway.

It seems Nintendo expected gamers to keep the console in front of them and connected to the TV via a cable running across the floor, rather than our now familiar methodology of keeping the console under or next to the TV and only bringing the controller(s) with you. The limited amount of space in Japanese households may have also had something to do with it.

Anyway, if you’re a modern western gamer nowadays it’s annoying as hell. Big N made the right choice when they brought the system to the US in not only making the controller cables significantly longer, but also unpluggable.

The Legend of Zelda… & Knuckles. I like it.

It’s clearly Hyrule, though. Similar art style, but new map. Death Mountain is shown towards the end of the trailer.

The Link’s Awakening remake got released at full price, so there is a 0% chance this will be a budget title even though it probably in reality should be.

Maybe in full HD we’ll be able to determine definitively if anyone in Ivalice actually has a nose.

90 degrees was the spec for this job. 240 is way too high.

And, I don’t own a hairdryer. (Or much in the way of hair, these days.) But I do own a 3D printer…

No. It’s a Moto Z4, which is compatible with Motorola’s “Mods” ecosystem which are a variety of accessories you can stick to the back. For data transfer they connect to those pads via pogo pins.

There are battery extender backs (which I have), a full-on gamepad case (which I also have) and also a 360 degree camera, a backplate that adds wireless charging, a mini projector, a beefed up speaker back, and an entire replacement Hasselblad camera you can stick on it as well. There was going to be a slide out physical keyboard module, too, which unfortunately turned out to be vaporware.

Has anyone else found a use for their 3D printer that wasn’t exactly listed on the label?

This guy… he’s un-fuckin-believable.

There are various tricks I could think of, but in Slic3r/Prusa/Orca/etc. I think I would just do an auto arrange on them with the spacing set to zero.

I think the chamber heater will go as high as 90, although for ABS the slicer warns me not to go higher than 60. It is PID controlled so you can set a specific temperature setpoint. And if my thermal camera is to believed it’s pretty consistent. The good news is also that it can heat the chamber to 55 or 60 in just about ten minutes.

If you have that much warp you either have a temperature gradient problem, i.e. your enclosure is not enclosed, not retaining heat, or is too cold, or in extreme cases you have a part that’s just not going to work with FDM printing in ABS or ASA (or probably nylon or polycarb either, at that rate). I think you were on the right track with your initial assessment.

Do you have a build chamber heater? My Qidi has one, and I feel like it’s basically cheating. Especially compared to my last printer. It allows me to Just Print with ABS without any of the prior nail-biting or headaches. It feels kind of weird.

I put the build plate in place as normal, but with a layer of kapton tape applied to it. (My printer won’t work without the steel build plate installed; my Z home sensor is magnetic.) In my case, I have a smooth backed one that doesn’t have the texture on it. You can apply it over the textured side of your build plate, too, but it gives you a resulting bottom surface that’s kind of weird and lumpy.

Kapton tape will work in a pinch, but covering your entire build plate with it is a pain in the ass with all the seams between each strip. I get big sheets of the stuff like these ones, and do it all in one shot. You can pretty easily trim them to fit whatever size your printer’s built plate is.

Remember to readjust your Z offset after you apply the tape because you’ll have to account for its thickness.

glue to the base

Por que no just fuse them together in your slicer and print as a monolithic part? You could probably even skip the base and just arrange the four bins together.

When I print ABS/ASA, I print it on a kapton sheet with hairspray as an adhesion aid. My printer (X-Max 3) does have an enclosed and heated chamber as well. I have not had an issue with getting parts off after the build plate has cooled. However, the addition of the kapton sheet means that the nuclear option is always available: Peel the sheet off along with the part, and put down a new one.

They cost like 50 cents each in bulk. The skinflint in me prickles at this, but that’s a lot cheaper than having to replace a borked build plate. I have not had to do this with my current printer, but I did with my old one once.

I generally do them by locating the center point, constraining the radius, and then the angle. The angle tool is a little janky specifically on arcs, but it does work. Or if the ends of the arc are fixed to something also immovable, you can just do the radius and angle and use the coincident constraint to stick its endpoints to the ends of other lines and leave the center point alone.

Yours was an interesting approach. I probably would have used a bezier for the pointy end of the heart.

Even at the time I found the contortions they put themselves into to avoid your protagonist from either speaking or having a name to be equal parts sad and hilarious.

Honestly even at this price point I don’t see much use for a machine like this for hobbyists. Plastic SLS printing only has a few advantages over the significantly cheaper and widely supported FDM machines most of us use. SLS printers can create overhangs and do “print in midair” tricks that FDM can’t because the partially completed part is supported by the unfused powder, and they theoretically produce parts that are isotropic, i.e. there is no difference in layer vs. planar adhesion and they are as strong in the Z axis as they are in the X and Y. This might matter for mechanical parts, but it’s not terribly important for the vast majority of people who are just cranking out low-poly Pikachus and Deadpool busts or whatever.

Yes, I can definitely foresee this being a mess. You know how people clutch their pearls over microplastics? SLS powder is microplastic, factory made, in a bucket.

It would be a different story if we could get a metal-sintering SLS machine at this price point. Even if it could only do aluminum, that would change everything.