My wife and I upgraded from X and XS to 13 Pro when it released. Both phones holds up amazingly well. Only new feature I’m envious about is the dynamic island but it’s hardly a feature I would upgrade for.

Just wish the grocery list would share between family members too!

I’m also so confused. Wouldn’t you drink the full one and fill the empty one??

It is 😊 they had a coupon deal to make it that cheap

Been doing a couple of test prints with 30-80% variable fan speed and it’s actually pretty good looking with almost no stringing.

I unfortunately don’t have an enclosure, else I would for sure try and higher fan speed. Ad a slight draft this morning and my calibration cube print popped off half way through.

Dude! I just checked AliExpress for the Sunlu S1 Plus when I saw your message and was able to get one for $39 (shipped from Germany)! Thank you for that idea!

Update: replaced the nozzle, heat block (heating element, sensor, PTFE) and fan duct. Did two new temp towers:

Left tower is 235 (top) to 260 (layers labeled 280-260 are all 260). Right is 220-240.

https://i.imgur.com/1MQkStE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HDWq19A.jpg

I definitely feel like 220 is the right temp for this.

In regards to the fan, I actually read a post saying PETG wants almost no fan, so I just left it on default but maybe I should try a fixed fan speed.

I’m pretty sure the popping noise was clogged PLA burning like crazy at 260c…

Thanks! Just two of my boards, SC Alice and Lily58.

Update: replaced the nozzle, heat block (heating element, sensor, PTFE) and fan duct. Did two new temp towers:

Left tower is 235 (top) to 260 (layers labeled 280-260 are all 260). Right is 220-240.

https://i.imgur.com/1MQkStE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HDWq19A.jpg

I definitely feel like 220 is the right temp for this.

I’ll try the bunny again, the model is designed for vase mode, so it should work!

You were right! All clogged up.

Replaced the nozzle, heat block (heating element, sensor, PTFE) and fan duct. Wasn’t able to unscrew the nozzle (got stuck 80% out) so I replaced the whole thing.

Did two new temp towers:

Left tower is 235 (top) to 260 (layers labeled 280-260 are all 260). Right is 220-240.

https://i.imgur.com/1MQkStE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HDWq19A.jpg

I definitely feel like 220 is the right temp for this.

Update: replaced the nozzle, heat block (heating element, sensor, PTFE) and fan duct. Did two new temp towers:

Left tower is 235 (top) to 260 (layers labeled 280-260 are all 260). Right is 220-240.

https://i.imgur.com/1MQkStE.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HDWq19A.jpg

I definitely feel like 220 is the right temp for this.

I selected PETG filament profile in prusaslicer.

I wrote the custom layer change temp code to switch temps and checked in prusaslicer that temp changes occur the right places. (Using the color preview thing)

While printing I also saw that the temp did change where it should.

I think I’ll do a calibration of the feeding, or whatever you call it, where you measure how much filament is extruded. During some of the bridging, it looked like nothing got extruded.

It almost looks like 260 is the best temp. While extruding at this temp, I did heat lots of popping noise, which makes me believe the filament is wet. The noise did not occur at lower temps.

Kinda annoying when it’s a brand new roll.

I’ll have to try that!

I did two temp towers: 260-225

And

280-235 Although my printer didn’t want to go above 260, so the first layers are all 260.

Brand new roll. I unfortunately don’t have any way to dry it :(