It looks like it’s happening at about the area of steepest overhang and while going around a corner. Is it possible the bead of filament is not grabbing onto the previous layer and dragging/sagging?
Maybe try slowing down the print speed a bit and/or increasing fan speed.
This is effin genius and makes me wish I had a bowden tube printer!
Or…
Make the horny version first, jack off, and then make the non-horny version. That way we all win regardless of whether we are pre- or post-wank!
I upvote interrobang usage reflexively.
Relax and just post star trek memes.
A series this timeless doesn’t need to be subjected the horrors of social media “hot” rankings
Enjoy TOS, enjoy TNG, enjoy DS9, enjoy whatever the fuck is currently happening.
An when inspo strikes, cap a screen grab, slap some Impact font and POST that shit brother so we may all partake.
Until then partake and wait for the shit to be posted.
I kind of forgot about the Queen… Totally agree.
That’s exactly it. Cable management is a top-down design philosophy. The Borg are a collective that organically integrates biological, mechanical, electronic, and any other systems that they find useful–it’s quite literally the polar opposite of a top-down design philosophy.
It would be more surprising if the Borg had tidy cable management, because that implies some hierarchy. Actually, the Borg cubes are a little out of place in that regard. Spheres or fractal-ish structures would make more sense.
Near idea! Have you considered making the “backbone” interfaces at a slight angle so that several base pairs begin to form a helix?
Or maybe a slightly spherical ball & socket connection to allow them to be twisted?
This might be situation dependant, but I personally (Ender 3 S1 Pro) spent weeks searching for ready-made firmware, then learning how to modify and compile firmware, then troubleshooting why I couldn’t get Linear Advance working, only to finally figure out that it just plain wasn’t supported by Marlin on my hardware.
I was about to give up and just go back to the stock Creality firmware, but decided to give Klipper a go without really knowing the full capabilities, other than that it natively supported Pressure Advance. In a fraction of the time I had spent dicking around trying to get a single feature enabled in Marlin, I had my printer running off a slick web interface, fully tuned up and printing substantially better than I was able to achieve with Marlin.
Now, granted, I never tried to get up and running with Octoprint so I probably am only half answering your question, but as a relatively casual printer I have found using and tweaking Klipper to be substantially more straightforward, and would not hesitate to recommend giving it a stab as long as you have a RPi laying around already.
Gotcha! I’m curious to hear what others have to say, because a web-based slicer does sound like a neat idea. I could see it being challenging due to the processing power required to slice more complex jobs. And also if you’re anything like me, you often slice a job a half dozen times or more while tweaking settings to get it just right, while flying around the model and checking tricky areas closely. If you’re self-hosting, maybe the processing power is not an issue, but it would require a decently advanced interface to ensure you don’t come home to a pile of spaghetti because you weren’t able to check the slicing job adequately.
The best I can come up with is to remote in to your main slicing machine and do the work that way, but I’m hoping I can learn something from this thread!
I don’t have specific advice, but I am genuinely curious about what your circumstance is that you:
Legit question, because knowing the situation might prompt better feedback. Or if this is a case of “it would be cool to do so, just because I can…” then carry on and ignore my post lol!
I use textured PEI, and this is pretty much my regimen for PETG as well. So far, a thorough 90% IPA wipe with a lint-free towel or microfiber right before each print is all I have ever needed to get good adhesion.
I second callcc’s suggestions. I don’t think it’s a slicer or hardware issue, just optimizing your print parameters for the filament.