Sure, you can print minis with an FFF machine. But there’s a reason the mini printing folks primarily use SLA. For that particular application, it’s significantly better. I say this as someone who uses an Ender 3 and is quite happy with it. If my main goal was printing minis, I would probably want an SLA machine instead.
If your goal is to make mini figures, what you want is an SLA machine. They are much better at making small detailed objects than FFF. However, it will definitely cost more than a cheap FFF machine like an Ender 3.
The Ender 3 variants are cheap and a great platform if you are OK with tuning/tweaking things. If set up properly they work great and are pretty reliable. But of you want something that works out of the box and doesn’t need any tweaking/tuning, you will probably be disappointed with it.
Adding a wireframe modifier is pretty simple - I’m sure you’ll do fine with that.
If you want to get into modeling in blender, I highly recommend the donut tutorial series by blenderguru. It’s on YouTube.
https://docs.blender.org/manual/en/latest/modeling/modifiers/generate/wireframe.html
Alternatively, if you just want a render of it and not a 3D print, then there are also various ways to do it with shaders and renderer settings.
Looks like it’s got a jam. Did you reduce retractions with the direct hotend? If not, you are probably retracting way too far, which will cause filament to solidify in the cold area and jam up.
The architecture is a bit different than octoprint. Fluidd and mainsail are purely client side UI’s, while Moonraker provides the server side API for them to connect to. So any additional functionality would need to integrate with Moonraker - not Fluidd/Mainsail.
A lot of functionality that is plugin based in octoprint is core to Moonraker and fluidd/mainsail. Things like cameras, mesh bed tools, gcode viewer, UI layout customization, power device control, etc are all included.
Spool manager is not something I’ve personally needed or used, but this would probably be a good option: https://github.com/Donkie/Spoolman
I highly recommend switching to fluidd or mainsail. They don’t require any more CPU power than octoprint (possibly a bit less, actually). They are more modern and polished interfaces than octoprint.
CR touch and BL touch are the same. It’s just creality’s name for it.
Inductive probes are probably the cheapest option. I paid around $5 for mine and it works great.
But then building it still requires whatever scripting tool you use. Including the bash-ified version would not for practice, as it wouldn’t be very human readable and would have to be kept in sync with the source script. It’s much cleaner and simpler to just require python for your build environment.
I don’t see why bash would be used at all here. If you want something that doesn’t need another interpreter, then just compile a binary.
Getting a model printed is pretty straightforward. There are many online services where you can send a 3D model file and they mail you a print of it. The bigger challenge is the design. Paying a professional to design something for you is going to be very expensive. However, many 3D printing enthusiasts design their own models as a hobby and make them available for free. I would suggest looking on sites like printables and thingiverse for something that suits your needs. If you can find it there, then you can just send the file to a printing service and have it made. Other options would be spend time to learn modeling/design yourself, or find a kind person to do you a favor and design something custom for much less money than a professional would charge.
There are many that can be reflashed with open source Tasmota firmware. Sonoff is one of the popular ones.
In my experience, moisture will cause excessive stringing in PETG long before it is saturated enough for popping/hissing.
FreeCAD definitely has a steeper learning curve and a few rough edges, but to me it was absolutely worth it to learn. I really don’t like my files subject to the whims of Autodesk.