In the 70s and 80s there were kids toys which played injection moulded plastic discs with a stylus that tracked the groove. I think you might be able to achieve something similar out of a printed record if it was spun fast enough but it wouldn’t sound great.
I had the misfortune to have some PLA snap just before and after the direct drive in my Bambu P1S and it took ages to get it out. I think age and moisture can affect filament, especially it blended with wood dust, sparkles or something which undermines it even further. I’ve resorted to packing my AMS with silica beads to hopefully mitigate for the issue and I threw out the filament that caused the issue. Ironically this is one of the few places a bowden extruder is any benefit - if the filament snaps just push it from behind through a heated nozzle until the blockage clears.
I have an Ender 3 Pro and bed leveling was the bane of my life. I’ve more or less conquered it by using heavier springs that keep their compression and not going too tight on each corner. I also use Klipper and a BL Touch to generate a bed mesh to compensate if one corner is higher than the others.
I think FreeCAD should feature freeze and redo it’s entire GUI to make what’s there more usable. Take a look at OnShape or Fusion 360 and do something similar. Hide infrequently used buttons, put labels on commonly used buttons, make everything more context sensitive, task-centric, forgiving and user friendly.
Unfortunately there aren’t a whole lot of good options. They’re either commercial and therefore potentially cost $$$ (or are time limited or otherwise restricted), or they’re free and kind of suck in one way or another.
Of the commercial offerings I like OnShape. I think Fusion 360 is fine too. They’re WAY more powerful than anyone needs for just designing 3D parts but they’re still powerful, well designed tools. I think if your needs are simple and you don’t care a great deal about complex shapes then Tinkercad is great too.
Of the opensource, FreeCAD is the closest to OnShape / Fusion 360. It’s a parametric modeller like they are but the user interface that throws every button in your face at once and doesn’t bother to sort them very well or provide context. It’s not an intuitive or forgiving tool and really needs a usability makeover to make it as simple as the commercial equivalents. I’ve never had much success with it because of this.
Blender is pretty popular for modelling. It’s not really CAD so it’s likely more useful for modelling free form / artistic stuff. The UI is pretty complex but it is extremely powerful.
OpenSCAD is pretty neat if you want to create something by essentially programming a shape and rendering it. It works well for certain kinds of geometric designs that are better expressed in code. e.g. maybe you have to punch 100 holes in a spiral pattern on the side of a box or something.
Organising random screws, bolts & nuts drives me crazy. I make things worse for myself because whenever I dismantle anything I normally salvage the metal pieces out of it.
I did exactly one print with PETG which was a benchy and it came out great. But I only have roll of PETG and I’m dreading to think what will happen if I try to use it again since it’s been sitting there for 2 years. I did put it in a resealable bag with some desiccant but even so. Most of the time I think I’m better off with PLA, but if I ever have something that will sit in the sun or otherwise get warm, I might go over to PETG for it.
Spotify and other such services almost certainly sound worse because they are compressed. But it’s not really a like for like comparison with vinyl. Spotify is streaming audio for people who want to play music casually in cars, earbuds etc. It offers convenience, not perfect sound fidelity. FLAC / CD on the other hand could be compared to vinyl and would win hands down for better frequency and range. The only reason they wouldn’t is if the CD master sucked and the vinyl master didn’t.
And vinyl is very lossy in its own way. The (digital) master of each side undergoes dynamic range & frequency compression to fit the limitations of the format (e.g. to reduce sibilance, track width). Then the master is cut into a lacquer disc from which a “father” is made, from which “mothers” are made, from which stampers are made and from which the vinyl record is made. So the vinyl in someone’s hand is a copy, of a copy, of a copy, of an altered digital master. The stamper too wears out so if someone is unlucky they get a pressing right the end of its life. And playing the disk can cause wow, flutter, distortion and general wear & tear can cause hiss, pop, dullness and scratches.
So vinyl will never sound better unless it received a better master than other formats.