Which then gave us orcaslicer (fork of bambu) which has been a godsent for having my mainsail UI in the slicer itself.

14mm³ isn’t even enough for an ender imho. Sensor is cool and all but it’s about the same cost as a vzhextrudort and Goliath or basically any other high-end hotend and extruder combo.

I lowered minimum wall width and wall transition length.

Ever since Arachne came out .4 became obsolete for me. If you play with the settings right a .6 can produce nearly the same small details while being way faster for infill etc.

Depending on the printer going for klipper directly might make it easier to use. Being able to have the abl probe and calculate what adjustments need to be made makes life so much easier.

I’d go resin for keycaps. I tried it on fdm and while it’s doable it didn’t produce anything I’d want to daily.

The second you start to enjoy 3d printing you’ll spend more on filament than the cost of the printer in the first year. This still adds up for a more expensive faster machine, youll just go trough the rolls quicker.

Corexz is nice for faster z hops and will probably get layer stacking similar to belted z which is better that the crooked leadscrews Ender’s usually ship with.

Could be pressure advance related. Have you tried disabling it or retesting your value.

Pla can also warp when not cooled enough. Although with a a decent textured Pei sheets you should never have pla adhesion issues honestly

From bambulabs themselves not much. But you can tune the amount of purge between each color manually. For instance going from any color to black requires less purging than going to white.

Yeah but you’re not selling waste spools at $20 when new pla is $10 to $20

To get the shitty filament running you can still go for fast travels, 300mm/s@15 to 20k should be fine.

Belt tension should be checked regularly and definitely before printing on a new machine. It being new doesn’t have anything to do with belt tension.

Esun pla+ has never failed me although Sunlu/JAYO’s meta pla isn’t bad either

180x180 Vs 254x254 iirc

One thing id definitely look towards is using klipper for the firmware side of things, being able sing an adxl345 (accelerometer) makes dialing in input shaper a breeze. And should get rid of most of the ghosting.

Bro how tf would a bigger battery result in it dying more often? What u smoking and where can I find