Every time I see this contraption, I can’t stop to think about Gardena making propellers. Due to the chosen colors.

Don’t tell me what to do. Upvoted.

Congratulations ! I usually make 4 or 5 iterations too for each piece, with my least favorite color (toilet paper pink that looked fuchsia on the website). I even launch a print and during the printing I correct my model based on the n-2 print.

Bambu is required to be connected to the internet

There is a LAN mode.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/enable-lan-mode

WE DID IT RE… LEMMY!

OK that’s clear.

What I would do :
I would remove the corners of the mag holder.
For this, I would make a big cylinder to catch what I want, and use an “intersection” to get only the center.
https://piped.video/watch?app=desktop&v=Z3sgFGeoQTs . Try it first with a cylinder, but actually, I would use a cone or a really big sphere to have a chamfer.

Then I would place my new shape like you on the case. Without the corners, you would not get the troubles of removing the complex shapes for the camera and the buttons.

Do you have some pictures and drawing to explain what you want to achieve?

I agree with the comment about using something simpler than Blender. Blender is the right tool for organic shapes and for sculpting.

What I understand is that you have two models, one for a phone case, one of a “hole” for fixing a magnetic holder.

I use OpenSCAD. With this tool, this would be my logic (could be replicated in other tools :

• import the mag holder stl
• create a rough shape, like a cylinder, that would fill the hole
• make a “difference()” between the cylinder and the mag holder. This way, the cylinder has the shape of the complex hole. You can then use this shape to make a hole in the stl of the case
• import the case
• import the mag holder once again / or add a volume the shape you want
• use “difference()” between the case+mag holder and the complex hole shape to clear the hole

you can enhance this process by creating a negative shape of the buttons holes

cut it with a sharp knife ?

Ouch!
I like OpenSCAD. I was interested in your solution until I found an example. It’s way too verbose for me. OpenSCAD has its flaws, but it’s simple.

thanks!

OK… looks like I could play with M226.
M226 waits until a pin’s value changes - you have to know the numer of the pin.
M43 allows you to display the pin’s value. I may find a pin matching with the user’s button.

These two exotic instructions are implemented in my shitty printer (from the documentation). I have to try it.

You mean going trough the menu ? I have never used this feature. When you “pause” the print, does the printer head goed to the origin (to be able to push the filament" ? I can imagine that it depends of the printer…

I have this kind of issue with shitty white filament. Changing the filament with better quality ones solves the issue.

For this roll of filament, it looks like a retractation setting problem. When the head “jumps” across the hole, the printer retracts the filament to release the pressure. If the retractation setting it too high, it will starts the new slice with a lag in the pressure, leading to underextrusion.

You may try to calibrate your retractation setting. The value should be lower. You may get other artefacts (filament residue in the hole) but it’s easy to clean.

You can make a “retractation tower” to get the best value.

That’s what I currently try (I am not OP) and it does not works. The slicers use one magic Gcode command (M600) that does all the filament change movements and interactions.

My shitty printer (Weedo Tina2) does not recognize this command (I have found the documentation).

A printer at my fablab (artillery X2) just ignores it.

What do you use to make midprint filament change?

Primaselect PLA.
It is said to be 12 times stronger than regular PLA. I can confirm that it is strong. Maybe not “12 times”.
It’s fluid and easy to print, it tends to warp a little. More than regular PLA, much less than ABS. I print it on a non heatable bed, so it’s not that bad.
Why I love it : the colors are vivid ! The magenta is really magenta.

I use OpenSCAD for my prints. So it’s just importing the STL with one line of code, and adding of substracting volumes.

Yeah! We need pictures! Were is the cube tomato!?

“Portal with RTX” is a remastered version of Portal with raytracing. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AZHBl5yWqJk

“portal with RTX” is a remastered version of portal with raytracing. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AZHBl5yWqJk

That hueforge and similar are impressive. The results are fantastic.