Nah 85/90 degrees is perfect for the job. Much better and more uniform than a heatgun, let alone a hairdryer

Is that a motorola moto z2 play? I owned that phone and I used to disassemble it just like this!

Edit: saw in another comment that it’s a z4. The camera did look strange for a z2 at a second glance

Also dumbest idea, have you tried a brand new spool of PLA? Just to exclude an incredibly wet filament. Because that can cause all sorts of problems

Hello, I suggested heat creep in your last post, which didn’t end up being the issue. I don’t remember if anyone suggested it, but have you tried checking the bowden assembly, on the motor side? Whether the stepper works, or the gears wore down (I’m pointing towards this), or there are clogs somewhere in the mechanism, even some dust that accumulated where it shouldn’t had. Or did you change settings like the current limit on the steppers? If that’s controlled with a potentiometer on the main board, maybe it got turned down for some reason (if so, I’d try to understand why’s that). I don’t know how Klipper handles motor drivers where current limits are controlled in software, I know that Marlin has a dedicated submenu in the Configuration>Advanced Configuration. If you reflashed the firmware, maybe the settings where in the eeprom and did not get transfered over or got overwritten in the flashing process.

I remembered that on a couple different printers I had the same problem as you, and it came down to damaged/untightened nozzles (which you excluded already) or wore down gears or, on the printer I’m working on right now, too low current limits which made the stepper skip steps somewhat randomly

That’s exactly how I wpuld test heat creep. Maybe that’s not it

Since you’ve already excluded a damaged nozzle and other parts, I’m gonna suggest heatcreep.

Maybe the extruder fan broke, so heat creeping up the extruder and melting the filament before it should?

My dad has an ender 3 which occasionally does this. I haven’t been able to find anything regarding the problem. Could you elaborate on this hot end fix?

Is this it? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831

Simply don’t. Powering the RPi via the gpio is possible but bypasses all protections (over/reverse voltage, shortcircuit). Do it only if you know for sure that those things won’t happen. Otherwise, know that you might kill your pi.

If you still wanna do it, look for ground (gnd) and a +5v rail on the ender 3 board. The here is the rpi gpio pinout, you have to connect gnd to gnd of the board and +5v to the +5v rail on the board.

I guess a good compromise would be to connect the +5v coming from the ender 3 to the proper pads/vias under the microusb cable on the pi, that way you would still have all the protections in place on the pi. But I have never done that, so don’t quote me on that.

You can start by creating a custom machine profile in Cura (or any other slicer) with the appropriate dimensions for your machine and start from there. It should work, but you will probably need to do a bit of calibration afterwards. Or you can start from the profile of a similar machine and tweak that