Makes me glad I still have access to my old university email and credentials.

I just went through this process when I got a Dreame D10 Plus which has an identical root process as the L10s a few weeks ago with the intent of putting Valetudo on it. I ended up trying but failing after one of the header pins I was trying to flash it with broke off in the machine. If you are brand new to this stuff, personally I wouldn’t recommend trying it. If you still want to try, do not update the robot once you get it and either buy one of the programming boards or at the very least have some 2mm pitch header pins around (standard in NA is 2.54mm). I really wanted to run mine locally as well (don’t like the idea of someone gaining access to a full lidar map and remote controlled camera in my house) and hope in the future an easier method is discovered. I don’t know about the base station for each floor thing, I do know that Valetudo only supports a single map. From what I understand that means you’ll have to re-map each floor before cleaning. If you only want Home Assistant intergration there is a HACS intergration for Dreame that allows for multiple maps. You used to have to jump thorough some hoops and use it with Xaomi cloud or something but the newest beta allows sign-in using the Dreame app credentials.

It sort of sounds like a resonance thing to me. If you try speeding up or slowing down the print and it stops making that noise, it’s most likely resonance. Are you able to get an idea of where the noise seems to be coming from? Like the gantry or base, etc. I also know people have been putting automotive sound deadener inside the enclosure on the bottom panel as it seems to make a lot of noise from resonance.

The tension adjustment on that extruder isn’t the greatest and the best fix in the long run would be upgrading it to a better design. But in the mean time, I find there’s sometimes a bit of slop in the extruder mounting to the stepper. If you loosen the screws that secure the extruder to the stepper you may be able to move the extruder assembly in a way that gives the filament more space between the gear mounted to the stepper shaft and the pinching gear on the extruder arm. Yymv, sometimes theres a bit of play and sometimes theres not but it could help.

Yeah, its a bit of a pain if thats what it requires. Luckily none of the ones I’ve worked on so far have been off by more than a millimeter across the bed and thats acceptable to me (at least for where these machines are going) for bed leveling to do the rest so I havent opened up the bottom on any yet. Solid machines printing wise though! Been incredibly impressed so far despite hit or miss reviews online, only failed prints I’ve had are from met arranging models poorly. And no worries, best of luck with the machine!

Ok, I can’t really confirm this for sure as these machines have to be delivered later today and I can’t go taking them apart, but I took a look at our K1’s and my guess is no. I think the grub screws you see in the case are for collars that keep the lead screws at the correct height, with no motor below there’s nothing else to stop them moving down. To adjust the bed level you’d have to loosen off the set screws that the sync T belt uses and thats only accessible from the base.

I have the CR Scan Lizard but have only used it for a few scanning jobs so far. Anything reflective causes a lot of issues with the scan but I was able to get some decent quality scans of my face, my hand, and a few other random objects I tested it on. Knowing how it performs now, I wouldn’t have paid full price. I feel the hardware is okay but the software is what holds it back, no alternative software that works with it either to my knowledge.