Apple will do what it always does, and launch any new product as and when it feels it has solved the problems raised by new product categories, and has something it believes is better than existing products.
Hahah. As long as you don’t hold your phone wrong or put it in your jeans pocket.
I’d argue your counting is flawed. That storage is used for OS, updated applications, caching, system data, videos, music you listen to, etc. When you buy 128GB you never get more than 100, and it only keeps getting smaller the more you use it. And iPhone’s default video FPS is 60. See how many of those can fit on that storage.
Well, they don’t want to because fans will gladly pay 200$ or more for extra 128GB and call them revolutionary.
If you take the plastic out, it’s not much of a problem.
Or that.
I have a different approach. I print very thin 0.2mm plastic strips and use label maker on them.
Good and cheap solution!
Each mode pairs with different device. I use mine for connecting to PC through Xbox mode, Android mode to my phone.
Of course. But I find myself reaching towards SolveSpace almost exclusively when I need CAD, than FreeCAD. Perhaps because my tasks are lighter.
Blender is great for 3D modeling, animation, etc. However for CAD work it absolutely sucks. You need to mess around with so many things just to get units right. Not to mention once you have designed something, changing it is really hard.
To be honest, I prefer SolveSpace. It’s significantly simpler and lacks a lot of features FreeCAD has, but it doesn’t crash and does just enough for me to be able to design whatever I need for 3D printing.
It’s great that it’s inside of Python as a language but at the same time sad that they didn’t take advantage of readability of the language. Syntax is very convoluted. But I’ll give it a shot some more times, perhaps there’s some obvious logic am missing.
It’s a retraction issue. If the layer starts there and you are missing first few millimeters of filament, that means you’ve retracted filament too much. If it’s only on the first layer, adding skirt will help prime the nozzle. But if it’s present throughout the entire print and all the layers start there, which it seems to be the case, it’s retraction issue.
Accept failures, learn. Have fun!
This is not good first layer. Your Z offset is too big. That is to say your nozzle starts too high. Every line needs to squish a bit to adjacent one, but you are not suppose to create waves.
This is a good first layer (0.16mm):
Managed to get it working and while performance is much better, syntax is downright disgusting. I know it’s Python, but looking at any code written for CQ would give Guido a nightmare. Am not sure looking up to jQuery was a good idea to begin with. I’ll try and give it a shot few more times, but boy does code written in this syntax look ugly and cryptic. Thanks for the recommendation though.
Maybe am missing something important here with chaining of commands?
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Personally I prefer OpenSCAD and SolveSpace for designing as they provide easy way to work and get precise measurements.
OpenSCAD is programming based CAD tool, which is to say you write down commands like make a cube, 10mm high, from it subtract a cylinder, etc. It’s great for basic models and doing a quick one off things. It’s capable of more complex stuff but lack of optimization and no help of any kind makes it a wasted effort for complex stuff. Because it’s like a programming language it’s the de-facto standard when it comes to configurable prints;
SolveSpace is parametric CAD tool. You draw things with simple elements like lines, arcs and similar and then form the shape with restrictions. For example you can tell two lines to be parallel and equal in size. And then only define size of one. Drawing is considered solved when there are no more degrees of freedom left. Solve space is more what a technical person would like. It looks kind of like AutoCAD and other CAD softwares. You can do quite complex stuff with it but complex stuff can take time because you approach the design with a technical drawing and then move from there by adding extrusions, revolves and similar. FreeCAD works in the same way, but I prefer SolveSpace;
Blender is also a notable 3D design tool and the one that’s easiest to do quick mockups and free hand. However setting up blender scaling so 1unit = 1mm cane be quite a problem. Also Blender is not exactly designed for precise work. You can of course specify width and angles and whatnot, but it’s mostly modeling tool so most of its tools are going to be targeted towards that.
For slicer, I wholeheartedly recommend PrusaSlicer from Prusa labs. It will give you sane defaults and excellent print quality without overwhelming you with configuration and data. I use to use CURA and pretty much gave up on it simply because it has too many options. PrusaSlicer works and works well. There are other options out there, even super expensive paid versions, but I don’t think they are worth it. Some people swear by them, but to me they don’t provide much benefit for the price they cost.
I wouldn’t suggest going OctoPrint route just yet. It’s a lot more to add to the learning curve and only benefit you get is a bit of convenience with network print and supervision. Which is not all that useful anyway. I use to run OctoPrint server, but stopped doing so last year. Once you have well configured printer it will be a fire and forget kind of thing anyway.
Good advice I can give you is look into better nozzle at some point. You don’t have to go the expensive route. Simple MicroSwiss plated nozzle is good enough (~20$). High quality nozzle means a lot, and I mean a lot. It’s a huge difference between issues you had trouble figuring out and print looking very consistent with proper layer bonding and similar.
TeachingTech has an awesome resource and YouTube channel related to 3D printing. He goes into details with everything and does explain things with examples. His 3D printer calibration scripts are great. They are basically GCODE generating scripts which make lives very easy. Things like flow calibration, temperature towers, z-offset, etc. All easily done and explained with a video.
Am not sure which printer you got, but if it has manual bed leveling with springs, get rid of them and replace them with silicone pads. Easily the best upgrade you’ll do. Springs are a never-ending source of issues with first layer. They slightly bend, your print unsticks. You print 2-3 times, have to recalibrate, etc. Silicone is compressible but remains firm so there’s no wobble and once configured bed remains leveled forever.
If you have detailed questions, ask-away.
How else does a company accumulate riches. Although work culture is drastically different in japan.
Original, and in my opinion best, Fallouts 1 and 2. M.A.X. which doesn’t get as mentioned as it should. Good old Blizzard games back before they turned evil. Sanitarium, awesome game from a studio who released it and promptly died after.