It’s an interesting story anyway, kind of fun how the early days of the internet people just decided to build stuff and that random little tool from decades ago continue to be the backbone of much of the world. Imagine if all that stuff was proprietary…

I think you mean Tuvix

Also, the link to your store is broken.

https://16bitstore.com/

I opened this expecting to be disappointed, but this looks like a finished, real product.

I’m extremely impressed at the dedication and the quality of the work! AND you’re providing all your hard work in easy to access, and easy to update files.

You are good people.

That’s my point though. They don’t really address how McCoy got the glasses he gave to Kirk in Star Trek II. Did he buy them? Did he just ask someone for them? Did he barter for them for services?

Same thing with alcohol, some people pull out alcohol they obtained through some back alley, black market deal. But what was traded for this black market alcohol?

Star Trek was pretty inconsistent with money. Riker often gambled for money, and they certainly treated specific items as “valuable” (historical items, weapons, and especially liquor.)

I think some of the writers just didn’t know how to picture a post-money world. But by DS9 they mostly treated things like latinum an inter-species trading valuable (especially to/from the Ferengi) or just something that’s needed in the outskirts of the Federation.

You could theoretically split some of that power from multiple sources though. Run one USB-C line to power the hot end, one to run the bed, and one for the electronics and motors.

Would get pretty complicated pretty quick, but it might work with a LOT of effort.

Checkov was the original Wesley Crusher.

Even crazier, they can filter out disease in the transporter. That’s how they don’t bring plagues back onto the ship after going on away missions.

How do they tell what’s a natural microbiome vs. crazy alien bacteria? Who knows, it’s a fantasy space show. Just sit back and relax.

The transporter detects and disables weapons mid beam. In at least one episode, they held a diplomat in the buffer to ask what to do about their weapon.

I feel like every Worf episode was them trying to remind you that he’s supposed to be a bad ass, even though he gets his ass handed to him every other episode to show how much more bad ass the enemy of the week is.

Morville Meme Mondays?

Literally the one thing that Jellico did right.

I’m not the researcher, so it could just be that this was the most convenient option for their lab. Or it could be that injection molding creates too dense of an object to have the right texture.

Unclear based on this article, but my best guess would be that the portability of a resin based printer and the detail that it allows for is a good compromise for on-site food printing.

It’s combining two technologies. One for vat grown nutritional plant cells, and one for turning that vat grown cell into palatable shapes and textures.

It’s an interesting tech and the more of these we try out, the more likely we’ll find something that succeeds.

I’m going to go against the norm here. It’s probably better to have them plugged in sometimes, if not always. Old capacitors can dry out and become brittle, which can destroy a mainboard when they surge and pop.

Nothing you do will be 100% guaranteed to keep electronics alive forever, because components wear out. Each console will have specific components with specific failure types that means that some are better having always power, some are better with sometimes power, and some are better with zero power. But my gut says that older consoles plugged into a quality UPS will probably last longer than a console sitting in a box unpowered.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

This is just one type of failure mode, but there are many other things that can cause damage. Power surges, transformer enamel wearing out, resistors cracking, thermal cycling of solder, thermal paste drying out, permanent CMOS batteries dying… etc. etc. etc.

Is there a hole in that nub? It looks like it’s trying to do the walls around the hole in the nub.

Not really answering your question, but have you considered painting the parts that are printed?

$225 is a ton, but you could always buy a single roll of $20 and a hobby acrylic painting kit.

9 cans of spray paint is also an option, you’d probably be upwards of $100 for that, but you’re still half the cost of filament.

https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/35964/duck-duck-go

In case you want something to do with them.

You have to shake the resin before you pour it in the printer. The ingredients of the resin can settle in the bottle causing inconsistent print sections. Shake it really well before using it, and when you’re done, pour it through a filter back into the bottle and store it in a cool, dry, location.