That’s always the thing, right?!
In my younger days,I was so quick to say “cool,I want one” and before I even came up with a need for it, i’d zlready have one on order. Bought so much useless junk that way. I stopped doing that years back.
I think in this case, I might make an exception. I design stuff for a living, but it’s all (or mostly) mechanical. Just to mess around more with the electronics side of things, I might build one eventually.
I didn’t think it was a scam, but I figured it was a way for them to make some money while still stating it is Open.
How many others are considering building one?
Oooo this looks cool as hell! I’ve always wanted to design my own robotic arm but the electronics part always intimidated me.
The link that OP mentioned looks like they are trying to sell you various components. Also the gripper is a separate item altogether. While it says it is Open, if yiu have to buy that PCB, it seems less interesting. I figured it would be running off a raspberry Pi or something like that.
it’s screen is 720. I would not expect Nintendo to go above 1080 on the screen and maybe output a scaled-up 4K when docked.
I don’t doubt it… Nintendo is always years behind.
The PS5 came out in 2020 and this Switch2 is probably a year away. So that would make their hardware be roughly 4 years old in terms of power. Plus if this is roughly the size of the current Switch, it won’t be pushing more than HD-resolutions (current Switch is only a 720 display), so getting PS5-level graphics on a 1080 screen these days is not particularly complicated or expensive.
We got a baller over here!
:swooon:
I’ve made a few logos. One of them I used to make a stamping die that deformed some sheet metal. Worked shockingly well.
I’ve also made a simple phone mount and a lens for the glovebox. My ultimate plan is to make the housing for new headlights, but lack of time and wanting to scan rather than measure the sheetmetal opening has slowed me down on that project.
I’ll tell you what, using that points distributor on my Lulzbot has sped up printing considerably! Unfortunately the print nozzle connected to the 401 nailhead sure makes the Buick hard to start.
Why not both!? I’ve used one to make parts for the other.
Depends on the number of axis.
No way would that kid be frowning. If this was legitimately in the late 70s or early 80s that kid would be ecstatic with the graphics.
When we bought ours, it was many years ago - I think ti was E2 Plus or something like that. I know they have newer printers out now. Whichever one fits your size requirements and budget.
Determine how big the parts need to be. Print volume will dictate a lot and eliminate a ton of printers. I liked the Raise3D printer I had. Large volume. Fully enclosed. The nozzle will be important for food grade stuff. I’ve never really needed to worry about food grade, so I can’t help you there, but never trust any cheapo Chinesium nozzle.
They sometimes find me. Friend of a friend knows someone who needs some stuff designed. That kind of thing.
What you are describing is simply being a design engineer. That’s what I do and I take on side projects once in a while. It’s not worth my time to simply 3D print things for people. The printer is simply a tool used for prototyping.
All they are doing is shifting the responsibility and liability into you.
They want to control the discussion about R2R. Rather than having pro-consumer groups set the rules, they rather have their influence dictate the rules to R2R from the inside. They know that participating in the process both makes them look good, but also let’s them control the discussion.
They want you using authorized Apple parts using authorized Apple tools and installing authorized Apple software. But using your labor to do it. Probably one of the biggest bottlenecks in the phone repair chain is the labor to open up and repair the phone. So for Apple it is a win-win to off-load that manual labor onto the user. If they fuck up the phone, then it is a win for Apple because that person now needs a new phone. If the repair goes successfully, it is still a win for Apple because the user is still locked into their ecosystem and they just bought some highly marked-up parts and didn’t give more work to their probably overloaded repair supply chain.
PLA doesn’t “need” it to trap in the heat, but an enclosure would help in trapping any fumes and then you can add a vent to the window to suck those out with a fan. Depending upon how fancy you want to get and how much money you want to spend, you could just buy some cheap sheet metal ducting from Depot for cheap and attach it to the window and then attach the other end to a plexiglass enclosure. Some people use the LACK IKEA side table as their frame and attach plexiglass sides so you can still see the printer working. Those LACK side tables are like dirt cheap at like $15. Or you can build your own.
I’ve never bothered to build an enclosure simply because I can just change the time when I do longer prints. If its like 15 mins I don’t care too much, but if it like a 10 hour print, I’ll do it at night usually.
Do you have a window? Can you create a little vented area? Maybe even put a fan on it that sucks the air outside? If you can buy or build an enclosure, even better.
Now to be clear, it’s not a huge deal if you’re only printing small things once in a while, but I’m not crazy sitting next to my printer when it’s printing in my office. I usually schedule to do my prints overnight or crack open the window.
Is kodi something equivalent to retroach or something like that? Any good resources you have used that explain how to set It up?