I had no idea that was an option, maybe that would have made my experience a little better
I had no idea that was an option, maybe that would have made my experience a little better
So far I just hit print… And it prints
Totally unheard of on my Ender
I had the ender 3 S1 with a cr touch though, why the need for both in that case?
I’ll try increasing the heat, I run 200/60
At this point I’m counting down the days until it’s time to replace this one.
Totally killed this hobby
I have the bed and nozzle when calibrating z offset and bed tramming and auto bed leveling.
What’s the correct way for each of those?
I am heating before I level, I’ve spent many many hours on it today and finally got something
Depending on how it goes when this print finishes I might switch back to the springs
The S1 comes with a CR Touch already installed, still have the problem
I’ll give this a shot, I was under the impression that you start with them as uncompressed as possible
That’s what I was wondering, it’s a pretty large print taking up most of the build plate. Since the bed is magnetic it takes a little bit of work to get it off
The bed is completely heating before each print, I just about always let it preheat and do something else before I start the print
It is not enclosed, would that make that much of a difference? I’m talking like one print turns out great for the entire duration and then I go to print again and the first layer won’t even stick.
Not sure what you’re even asking with the other questions about slop, backlash, and z tilt. Will have to look into those
How well does the Lego one work with actual Lego bricks?
What needs to be fixed with the pro controller?
Is it joystick issues? I bet it’s joystick issues