Enamel paint is suitable for this as well- this is how I apply testors enamels, for example.

For applicators, check for “ink syringes”

I’m just gonna assume some one printed a butplug, had it snap off leading to said emergency room visit and they tried to sue lulzbot.

You can process the inside to be smooth (sanding, priming. If you have a solvent - acetone for abs, as an example. And mold release.)

Even just using a filler/primer should be enough

it really was hilarious watching the cat stubbornly refuse to move out the way as the bed moved back and forth and the hot end poked it. the cat had this most baleful look like it was being martyred by the machine.

(Yes, the friend was careful not to hurt the cat.)

I know a guy whose cat will take naps on it.

Used to have problems with the cat sneaking up while preheating, and being very intent on not getting off. (Even with the cold hot end poking him. It was… hilarious. Took an old i3 and sacrificed the build plate to solve the issue though.)

I realize this is a joke…

But don’t do this. Really. The fdm layers are unhygienic, and there’s a not-insignificant risk of things snapping off and leading to awkward emergency room visits.

A better solution is printing a 2 part mold and casting silicone.

This is different from carbon fiber filament.

The filament is impregnated with short strands of carbon fiber (aka chopped strand,)

Basically, what you’re doing is using a 3d printed part as a core to shape the carbon fiber- which is a very useful trick- similar to shaping pink insulation foam and skinning that over. (Pink foam is fairly lightweight and very easy to shape- a resistive wire or wire heat gun cuts like butter. Especially useful if you take copper power wire and bend it to form.)

For the record, chopped strand fiber in a fdm printer doesn’t significantly increase strength- especially along layer lines.

It might increase tensile strength of the load is parallel to the layers, but that’s about it. In every other direction, the fiber doesn’t cross layers, and delaminating is the primary failure mode.

The strands would be more like glass fiber than asbestos- you wouldn’t want it in your lungs, but then it shouldn’t really be airborne.

A better option might be graphite filled, which will still get you that look, and help lighten the part without losing strength. Still would not want to sand it without ppe, though.

You’re talking a Bowden extruder?

Micro swiss has a nice dual gear upgrade that can drop in.

It’s very reliable.

Alternatively, if you drop pictures we might be able to help without going to that.

I mean, honestly, it’s commendable.

I’d try IPA for the stuff in the middle. Or something like those blue 3m scrubbies.

Honestly , I just clip the 2-3” off the front and not worry about it. It’s a minuscule amount of plastic

If you’re trying to be ultra frugal, yes, you can probably clean it off with a solvent. IPA might work. Goo gone would but introduces all sorts of other contaminants.

Eh. when was the last time a mosfet melted on anyone? not saying it can’t happen, but mosfets are at fairly reliable. as long as you’re not trying to push wayyy too much power through them; and also proper surge protection to avoid things like bad power in your house frying them.

It was a significant problem in early machines. Most now have thermal runaway protection. As long as your wires don’t short out, it shouldn’t be a problem.

And the only wires that have enough energy to be a problem are the heaters- hot ends, heated beds/enclosures.

The firmware keeps track of how much energy is going to them and will shut the printer down if the energy is inconsistent with the reported temperatures. (Aka thermal runaway protection.)

You can also usually add secondary thermistors and if they deviate too much, triggers the same result. (And the machine will usually start trilling to get attention, etc,)

It could be layer adhesion being hampered by bed temp. What are you printing in? Does it have a lot of warping at the corners?

Not to be a stickler, but a dove tail is a sliding joint- the dovetail itself is a trapezoidal section with the narrow side facing the part it’s on.

The slot is similarly cut so it slides into place.

This is (basically) a fat biscuit join, which is good. Peg designs might be better - prefer pyramidal pegs, they self center and have more surface area for glue, and they print neater when they have suboptimal orientation to the print bed.

I don’t know if newer PS5s are flat, butine isn’t. I imagine the stand won’t want to stay in one place very well. There are ways of solving this, but it will add extra complexity.

that’s why furniture usually has feet. :) some feet, some rubber dot thingies from amazon… problems solved. Profile guages are also helpful, yes. though one wonder’s why it needs to be perfect? In some ways, that might actually make the stand harder to use. more finicky

So, there’s a few general ways I might tackle this.

The first is with a radius gauge. something like this set can be printed out. you can then just define the radius appropriately in F360, or whatever software you’re using.

Then, in most CAD software- including in F360, you can insert pictures; and scale points on them so you can then build around it. because of optical issues with the camera this is perhaps not as precise as you might expect. However, it will get you close, and then you can print small cross sections of test pieces to verify and adjust.

Finally; the method I usually fall to: Just not caring to be perfect. You don’t have to match the cradle perfectly to the contours. you just have to match critical points. take a ruler, find two points that can act as the ‘base’, and use that as the ‘flat’ surface, then find a another couple of points that keep it sliding off.

I would suggest setting your hot end to 80-90 degrees. At that temp, PLA becomes rubbery and pliable without being a melty burned out mess. You can then clip and remove the blob with care and proceed with breaking it down.

For other types of filament, you want to be just above the glass transition temperature and below the melting point. (usually it’s a bit above your heated bed temperature.)

also, the springs tend to go out of level, and it’s usually best practice with springs to level it manually and get it close enough first, then use the ABL to correct for the horrendous dip in creality printer beds.

I would suggest for EVA foam; you could print skeletonized forms in PLA and gluing to that. Yeah, it’d be super slick to be able to just print the stuff, but overall, rigid plastic is awkward and uncomfortable to wear.

You can sandwich the skeleton form between layers. A coarse sanding will get barges to hold every bit as well, too. And the skeleton can offer a more-solid foundation for spikey-things and such, too. And if the form is a difficult shape to print, you can also soften it quite easily with a heat gun and drape it on a form- or, if it’s a sheet use your heat bed set above 70-80 (for pla,). Bad for printing. Great for post processing.

(Also, have you made a vacuum table? You can make a cheap one using that corrugated plastic signboard stuff, and a shop vac. You can also set up a space heater as the heating element using MDF or plywood as a box frame- or a gun. You can make helmets very easily using a vac table and a 3d printed bust that’s the same size as your head.)