Wow yeah that first one is pretty terrible looking 😅

I’m decently pleased with mine though, but I’m really looking forward to the quality on the voron. I actually already have “the filter” on my current printer (slightly oddly placed in the tent, but it works), and I just connected it directly to the printer PSU and manually turn it on/off with a toggle switch.

The solution was more cooling. It was warping due to too much heat, I increased cooling to 100% and reduced overhang speed slightly and it now prints well.

Both ASA and ABS are approved materials. ASA has higher heat defection than ABS, should be easier to print and it smells significantly less when printing.

Fans are completely disabled, except for overhangs and bridges. If I disable fans for overhangs and bridges, they sag like crazy.

I doubt draft shield is going to do anything, the printer is already completely enclosed in a tent. I have around 50-55°C inside the tent.

Edit: I tried a re-print with less cooling for overhangs, it seems to exacerbate the issue significantly.

So am I, no hiccups whatsoever.

Would this be a good entry level device?

Kind of impossible to say right now, it’s not released yet. On paper it seems like a good deal, almost too good at that price point. I wouldn’t buy one until I’ve seen some reviews.

Damn, that’s a crazy low price for a coreXY with a 42.000cm^3 build volume

I’m not sure how high the resolution is on resin printers, but the tip of a record stylus is maximum 0.001mm in diameter, here are the specs for records, it’s some pretty small grooves with very fine detail you need for something that’s passable.

Excellent April’s fool joke, but man it would be sick if you could actually 3D print your own vinyls.

Uh, it even runs POE, I just use a sonoff USB dongle…I’ve just been using my lightbulps and 230VAC relays as receivers/routers for nearby battery powered ZigBee units. There’s always a mains powered ZigBee device within good range so it can reach my server in the laundry room.

The tolerance on a lego brick is ±0.005mm. you’re going to have a hard time achieving that on any FDM printer, even commercial ones.

Ah OK, the thread on the nozzle just looked too short and a bit like it was broken at an angle.

Wait…did the nozzle crack in to two parts!?

It’s two completely different looks and styles, one can’t replace the other.

I’ve had bad stringing before with PLA, drying it made it go away completely with the exact same print settings and model.

I’d argue that the vast amount of (recent, not only older) resources available online showing similar experiences to mine disproves your statement that PLA has no issues with moisture retention.

I’d avoid all the anycubics except for the basic Kobra 2. All the new Kobra 2 models seem to be locked down with proprietary firmware and locked to their own platform, but the basic Kobra 2 is completely open as can be easily flashed with e.g. Klipper.

I have the Kobra 2 with klipper running instead of anycubics firmware, and it’s OK. Its obviously a cheap printer, so don’t expect excellence, but I’m satisfied with it as my first printer.

Yeah I can see that the seams of his “before” models is actually look like what I’ve been able to achieve on mine now. I guess I was trying to fix the last bit with standard seam options which might not have been possible.

I’ll download the noisyfox orca slicer and test the scarf seams out.

I’m using orca slicer

No, I’ve tried with that enabled as well, same issue. This isn’t before a layer change, it’s when it goes from extruding the walls to extruding the infill.

But even without infill this happens. It’s the end of the outer wall that doesn’t connect to the beginning of the outer wall and it’s not really fixed by reducing seam gap, so I’m not sure what’s actually causing it.

Worst part is it taking forever for it to print the casket around you, and you’re just lying there unable to do shit and just watch the casket close around you in ultra slow-mo. Like being buried alive with a tea-spoon for a shovel.