Because they don’t want you to host things at your house, even though that’s perfectly fine from a technical standpoint. They might want to sell you a “business” line for this, or they just don’t want the traffic (since at least in my area, traffic is always included in any home Internet connection).
I know this post is quite a few days old already, but I still wanted to add a bit to the discussion.
The printers you list vary wildly. Both in terms of design goals (“what is the printer meant to do well”) and assembly requirement (from “ready to print in 10 minutes” to “you build this for like a week until something moves”). A Qidi is basically ready to go, a Prusa will take some time to put together (how much depends on if you got it as a kit or fully assembled). A Voron 2.4 takes about a week to build just for the printer, not including ERCF and/or tool changer, let alone tuning of said ERCF/tool changer.
Also there’s the Troodon, which is a Formbot prebuilt that is closer to a real Voron 2.4 than a Sovol SV08, just to add to your list. It has a stock stealthburner tool head compared to the proprietary thing that Sovol uses, for example.
I’ve recently built a Voron 2.4r2 (Formbot kit) and loved it, but it was like my 4th printer (and a previous printer was a self-sourced scratch build). So do you have experience with 3d printers, and building them or tinkering with them? I would probably not recommend building one otherwise, but it’s not impossible either, just expect a relatively steep learning curve if you have no prior experience.
Do you want to mostly just print in colors but same filament ype, or do you want to mainly have multi-material capabilities? So do you need 5+, or would 2 colors with the option to expand work for you?
If the Voron is a real option for you, I’d highly recommend it. Just make sure you’re going with a can-bus based build/kit (like Formbot). These days I wouldn’t go with an ERCF due to the complexity of building it and then setting it up, as tuning is supposedly a bit of a process. Also you mentioned that the amount of waste during multi-color prints is a real factor for you, and that puts single-nozzle systems inherently at a disadvantage as you just have to purge the hotend on every change. So I would suggest a tool changing system, and I would either start with that (but just 2 tool heads), or add it as the first project. Specifically, I would suggest using the Tapchanger as a modern system. Frankly adding a tool head like that is much less effort than building an ERCF, but also just adds 1 filament each and not like 9 at once.
Yes I know why you have so the interfaces, but as far as I know: Linux simply can’t do what you want. So if you want to access PiAlert from your main PC on .6.X, you need to make that accessible from .6.Y on that VM. If you want to have the management port (UI) only open on the management interface, you would need to remove it’s interface on .6.X.
As I said, as far as I’m aware Linux simply can’t not route packets properly in an environment like that. I won’t respect that the interface packets came in on needs to also be the outgoing interface for the return trip. I also had that problem and eventually j I’ve just given up.
Do I understand this correctly? Your PC is on .6.X, and your connecting to the PiAlert on .1.X, but it also has an interface on .6.X? You just can’t do that with Linux. Weirdly enough I hink Windows handles this correctly and sends the responses back via your router (I think any stateful TCP connection will use the same interface both ways). This doesn’t explain why anything actually freezes though. Did the VM lock up, or is it just ssh that’s dropping?
But as for the solution: if both devices have interfaces on the same network, you should connect to that interface.
I’m sure the official slicer will have a good profile, maybe the speed for outer walls accidentally got changed to 1 mm/s? I don’t usually use Cura (that is what their slicer is based on), but I think to change speeds at all you need to hit “show advanced” or something? So if you didn’t change anything, that is even less likely.
If it’s real pauses (print head stops completely), I have even less ideas what that could be.
When I get back home I can try to see what I get with your settings, probably just resetting everything should also work for you though.
Can you give us your basic info:
and just posta screenshot of the sliced model that the slicer should show you, makes it much easier to recognize trivial errors like wrong orientation.
A good rule of thumb is to just always use 0.2mm layers unless you have a very good reason not to.
That being said, this doesn’t explain your truly nonsensical time prediction. It would just be double, since you have twice the layers to print. Like someone said, a few hours would be reasonable, certainly less than a day even with very fine detail.
You should still have a roughly level bed, even with abl. It’s not meant to make up for a massively skewed bed, is and that will affect print quality if you ignore it.
I prefer a fully rigid mounted bed without these cursed springs. It either gets leveled once with shims, it the printer can adjust it’s x-y-plane to be coplanar with the bed (or adjust the whole bed to the x-y-plane). And yes it might need abl to compensate for thermal expansion, but not for small enough printers for example.
In what can only be described as “perfect timing”, the 3d printing channel teaching tech uploaded a video about just this problem literally a day ago: https://youtu.be/vl0FT339jfc
it’s barely December. Who even thinks of wrapping presents now?
Movies generally have a much longer production time than a year. So the script was most certainly finished before ST III was released in cinemas. So BTTF writers would only have knowledge of ST III if they also wrote it, and even then it’s highly unlikely that at the time of writing BTTF it would’ve been public knowledge (or even a made decision) Lloyd would be in ST. Getting most certainly wouldn’t have even started for BTTF.
One small addendum/correction: I meant Stealth changer (which is based on Tap changer), but got the names confused.