It could just be that they didn’t test them to confirm that they work and don’t want the headache/liability of claiming that untested drives will work. AFAIK one M.2 drive should be the same as the next provided that it’s the same type (SATA vs NVME)

Have you tried PID tuning with the new nozzle and heatbreak? Maybe your printer isn’t running at the temperature that it thinks it is.

Rectal sensors work too but can be a pain in the ass to get setup.

This isn’t the personal use version. That one is still free.

Heat the nozzle up to like 215C and then shut it off. Wait for the nozzle temp to reach 90C and then yank the filament back out. If you do it correctly, the very tip of the filament you yanked out should be a fine cone shaped point. This is referred to as a cold pull.

You might have had a bad stepper motor on the extruder. I recently went through this whole issue and after trying all the usual suspects, determined that a bunch of filament flakes/dust had found its way into the extruder stepper which would cause it to lock up intermittently.

It may be the instanced you signed up with. I think lemmy.world has defederated from a bunch of other instances plus has a lot of users and a lot of stability issues because of that.

To expand on this, also wait to do any big modifications to the printer until you familiarize yourself with it and again, are able to get decent prints. Nothing is worse than starting out with something new and not knowing whether your issues are caused by a lack of experience or something you changed yourself.

Definitely read the docs but yes your edit is correct. In ESPHome (in HA) you’ll just edit the config file to tell it, for example, that GPIO pin 5 is connected to a potentiometer and then this becomes an entity in HA.

I’d recommend getting some ESP8266 Wemos D1 mini boards as they’re better suited to this and half the cost of ESP32.

Also you may consider other sensors you could use in this same area like temperature, lux, humidity, etc as they can all be run off the same ESP device in the same ESPHome config and you’ll have plenty of free pins.

Not to mention the footprint. Bed slingers need a much larger workspace area in order for the extruder to reach the entire bed area. I’m a bot skeptical of the printer listed above though. It has a really tiny bed and not that great of print speed. Plus looking at the page they list things like “5:1 gear reduction” three separate times (who cares what the drive ratio is?) which leads me to believe it’s built with cheap parts and lacks a lot of features standard on even cheap Ender machines.

Something else that contributes to stringing is using Z-hop as there’s nothing to wipe the nozzle clean. My printer is calibrated well and I still get stringing when using Z-hop.

I meant your extruder’s z-offset it too low not the temperature.

Your extruder might be set too low.

Have you tried hairspray? I definitely prefer it as it’s easy to put on and gives nice, even coverage.

Depends on your definition of ‘damage.’

I’ve been looking for a year or two and the selection is pretty limited for off the shelf solutions. Most are $60+ each like the FP1, the Tuya options, or the one from the EverythingSmartHome youtube guy.

I’ve given up on having presence detection for the time being as PIR definitely doesn’t cut it, though hopefully that guy responds with his DIY solution as I also have a 3D printer and electronics experience.

I’ll have to dive into again now that I have an idea of devices to look into. It’s definitely possible that I just don’t have things configured correctly.

Thanks for the reply. The Relish player looks like a good candidate though for the price I can try out the Ikea Sonos Bookshelf speaker mentioned in the other reply integrated with HA like you suggested. It might even be perfect to set it up with a scene controller like this provided I can get the Spotify/Spotcast integrations working properly.

Can you not just use the HomeKit integration directly in HA? I don’t have any Wyze devices but I have several (like TVs) that have added themselves to Home Assistant via the HomeKit integration.

Don’t skip out on Z-wave too. They’re typically more expensive devices, but they use less power and are more reliable. You’ll obviously need a separate Z-wave transmitter/receiver but they’re under $30. You might also buy a couple USB extension cables so you can move both the Zigbee and Z-wave transmitters away from the ports since with some setups you can run into signal interference from the ports themselves.