Fair, you do need some basic safety gear in addition to being able to exhaust it out a window, namely gloves, goggles and maybe a respirator, which might blow your budget if you dont already have any of that (and anything gloves/goggles used for resin should stay with the resin printer to avoid cross contamination).

But I did want to mention it since your main example is Minis, which is very detail oriented.

You do need some special precautions with resin, namely a well ventilated area (or exhaust it out a window or something), gloves, goggles and maybe a respirator depending on resin type. But basic safey practices mitigate any of the health concerns or dangers.

Resin is a fine entry point if what they are printing is not only very detailed, but something they want to print multiples of. FDM can do amazing detail, but Resin can do it far better, and with less time investment. But as I said in my original post, FDM can do good enough detail with time and dialing if they are gonna be printing things besides detail oriented miniatures as well.

Just takes dialing. I printed minis on my E3Pro without much issue(after dialing in of course) with pretty good detail (even the handles for the warhammers and swords came through acceptably)

Definitely wouldnt get FDM if all you are printing is minis though.

Creality has never had anything decent for support for their Printers.

The support comes from the community., and third party retailers

Ender 3 is a very competent platform, and capable of printing a lot of stuff from large functional prints down to wargaming miniatures (I have a Ender 3 Pro thats fairly modded, and I’ve printed stuff from both extremes of the scale), If you are going to be printing a variety of things then I think its a solid buy for you, but you will have to deal with figuring out the right nozzle size, slicer settings, model position and supports for it, to get smaller prints to come out well (Remember, FDMs best detail resolution is on the left/right/front/back, it doesnt have as much detail in the up and down, so you have to position detailed models accordingly). And even at the finest details you might have layer lines that show up once you throw paint on, but they typically only really stand out if you hold it up right to your face… On a wargaming table, for example, no one would most likely ever notice.

If your prints are mostly going to be small, and detail oriented, then I would suggest a Resin printer if you can swing it. It will give you significantly higher detail, and if you print multiple at once, save a lot of time as well. Cause with resin, it doesnt matter if you are printing one or a dozen at once, it still the same speed as one. Unlike FDM.

as a last piece of advice… A good 3d printer is expensive. Whether you pay that price up front in cash, Or you pay it in time tinkering and experimenting, Is up to you. Ender 3 is cheap cash wise, but You’ll spend some time tinkering, and dialing, to get the best out of it.

Whats next? Criminal background check to buy cutlery for your kitchen?